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Post by hopwheels on Nov 20, 2006 21:27:31 GMT -5
Awesome Bob! Thank you. Soooo, I do have new cam bearings on the way, how do you remove the old ones. They seem pressed on.
Is is 3 Bond 1104? Is that used in conjunction with the gasket? I found in searching around a product called Gascacinch. Holds gaskets in place for assembly. Is that needed on gaskets that essentially installed dry? Can't find any inof yet on the other product you mentioned. What about assembly lubes? Are there products that should be applied during assembly? I'm trying to gather all the stuff I need for the long weekend coming up. Be nice to not have to run off looking for something.
MORE: Found out the shop doing the cylinder bore had to remove the studs. I guess I should have expected this, in order to line up the cylinder. My questions is, can I use the "two nuts cinched together, top nut to tighten, bottom to loosen" method of gettgin those studs back on, or is there some special tool needed?
Thanks guys!
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Post by yamatopdog on Nov 21, 2006 19:07:35 GMT -5
Gary,in the most barbaric method if you don't have proper tools i would open up a vise to alow the cam to pass thu but not the bearing lay the bearing across the opening using a soft punch(as wide as possable) maybe use a little heat on the outer race,if a soft punch is'nt available at least use a lincoln press plug
1104 will work but i have'nt seen a gasket except as i recall around the kick indicator(if you have a source for that let me know, i was unable to locate one last time)
assambly lubes are a big plus, i've always prefered the red, again many brand names,use on allsurfaces that rotate or rub togther,i could'nt amagine that you could too much(preimum price exluded)although i never use it on cyl walls ,just a light coat of what oil you will be running on a reg bases
two nuts together work fine, if the hole is very clean the stud should go in ez,a little red loctite to hold it in place
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Post by yamatopdog on Nov 21, 2006 19:12:28 GMT -5
Gary, forget to tell you a lincoln press plug is a penny.
Happy Thanksgiving to all
Bob
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Post by SRwillie on Nov 21, 2006 20:31:14 GMT -5
Hey Gary, Haven't been on the site since this thread started. One thing you may want to check while your this far, is which oil pump is in the engine. The later engines had 5 screw pumps. The early motors only had 3 srews in the pump cover. Better sealing of the pump housings = more/better oil pressure to the top end. Don't know if you are the original owner and know the history on it... Just got to that point in my '78. Lower end will probably be back together soon (making a crank pulling tool to seat the crank and cases). Just FYI
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 22, 2006 11:24:53 GMT -5
Thanks again guys. SRwillie, I'm not redoing the bottom end at this point, just hoping for a good head transplant. ;D Thanks Bob. Had to go with Yamabond, which I've read is similar to 1104, maybe even the same. It's all the local places had. Found a Loctite product gasket sealer, as well as Gascacinch and Bel Ray assembly lube. Waiting for a couple of parts to arrive then the head transplant begins. I'd really like to find a way to NOT pull the entire motor, but haven't found definitive info that it's possible. Even the Clymer's manual seems unclear.
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Post by SRwillie on Nov 22, 2006 11:50:47 GMT -5
Gary, the oil pump is located just behnd the clutch. Does not require doing the bottom-end. The only reason I bring this up, my motor had 27k on it and the piston pin and small end of the rod showed some wear that concerned me. My motor may have had a "Rougher" life than yours. Again, just FYI!
Willie
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 22, 2006 11:57:45 GMT -5
Thanks Willie. Good to know. This motor has 39K miles on 'er. I'm supposedly the 4th owner. The second owner (third owner bought it and garaged it, never rode it) commuted on the bike, so a lot of the miles are freeway miles (the po's info). Not sure of a rough life or not. On another occasion, I'll look into the oil pump, as well as a clutch at some point too. Thanks!
Bob, or anyone, if I get the cam bearings off, what is the non-barbaric method for getting new cam bearings on? Again, I just want to get any potential machine shop work done in advance, and not get this sucker torn down and get stuck.
I've read all sorts of info online about what gasket sealer to use and when. Anyone here have the definitive "book" on what sealers to use on the SR head assembly, what gaskets to install "dry", etc.?
Thanks!
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Post by SRwillie on Nov 22, 2006 14:00:24 GMT -5
Gary, the best way to install the cam bearings is to freeze the cam and place the bearings in the oven at around 350. They should go on with some slight convincing. Head gasket dry and I have never used anything on the base gasket. I would suggest a new oring at the base of the cylinder sleeve.
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 22, 2006 14:26:13 GMT -5
Rock on Willie... got all new o-rings. Thanks man!
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Post by yamatopdog on Nov 22, 2006 20:27:49 GMT -5
freeze and heat works well but have to work fast as you are dealing w/all the same metal(same expanhion rate) if you have a vise(again) that will open up enough, use a socket that will clear the cam and contact the inner race of the bearing,you can use it to press it on
only press on the inner race as you can destroy a new bearing by putting a load on the outer race,Bob
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 24, 2006 17:02:53 GMT -5
UPDATE: Cam bearings came off easily. The bearing without the circlip came off by hand, and the other simply required placing lightly in a vice and tapping out the cam with a hard plastic drift I have. However, I should have inspected the cam more fully before even going to this trouble. The lobes look fine, but there are chips in the large "threaded" area. See pics. Does this mean this cam is done? Hope everyone that celebrates it had a nice Thanksgiving. Thanks guys.   |
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Post by StewRoss on Nov 24, 2006 17:37:08 GMT -5
Hi, The threaded area is the worm drive for the tacho drive in the cover. If you carefully clean the broken parts up with a file and smooth them off nicely it should be OK. Check to see if it looks like any more might be coming off as well. See if you can find where the bits have gone though (if there still around; they might be in the screen in the bottom). Otherwise I wouldn't be too concerned. SR  |
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Post by StewRoss on Nov 24, 2006 17:38:29 GMT -5
...check the matching part of the drive in the cover as well... SR  |
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 24, 2006 19:17:06 GMT -5
Hey that's cool to know Stew. Thanks! The cam came off a motor I bought from a guy in New Mexico. Not even matched top and bottom ends I don't think. I put a brand new tacho drive in the rebuild rocker cover. This gives me an extra cam now, as I had another one I just liberated from its cam sprocket while waiting for a reply on this post and it's in perfect shape. All the measurements are like it has NO wear at all. |
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Post by hopwheels on Dec 2, 2006 16:46:17 GMT -5
UPDATE: Starting to get the motor togther this weekend, after steam cleaning the frame and polishing some bolts, repainting the motor mounts, etc.
I have a question.
I have a few new head gaskets, two are 90mm ID, another is 88-89mm ID. I had the cylinder bored to second over (which I believe makes it 87.5mm). Is using the 88-89mm OK? Or should I go up to the 90mm? Does it matter?
Gary
Hopwheels
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