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Post by hopwheels on Nov 14, 2006 1:29:43 GMT -5
Talked to a guy at a shop near me today and he wanted $500 to $800, labor alone  , to do the top end. Talked to him about the cruddy/corroded head and he mentioned they do some sort of an overnight chemical steam bath? Probably just a parts wash of some kind, but he said it would clean up just about anything. Didn't really want to talk to him too deeply as there was no way I was spending that kind of cash for just the top end. I'm having trouble finding a machine shop that knows bikes to do the cylinder bore and the valve work. |
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Post by StewRoss on Nov 14, 2006 1:53:37 GMT -5
Hi, I had my Honda 350 head vapour grit blasted by someone in Nth Adelaide...ask HRE (Hanlons) where they had it done. As you say it looks nice and clean and is easy to keep that way. SR  |
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Post by StewRoss on Nov 14, 2006 1:57:33 GMT -5
Hi Gary, Surely there'd be heaps of places that could do it. Look for a performance shop...even a car one, aargh...and they'd know where to go or could do it themselves. Performance shops should be able to do it AND keep the bore parallel with the cylinder. The valves would be easy to have done in the same place. I know where to have it done here, but you need to look for a place that's OK. SR |
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Post by thumperbill on Nov 14, 2006 13:09:19 GMT -5
Here is a place that is in my neck of the woods that knows the older bikes and is very reasonable. Lots of vintage guys use them around here. A cyl head minus the rocker cover fits in a priority flat rate shipping box quite easily. Worth contacting them if your having trouble finding what you need where you live. Top end assembly is pretty straight foreward it should take an afternoon by yourself. www.superiorsleeve.com/Prices.htmI havent used them yet but will be in the next week or two for a VERY special project bike of mine (not Yamaha). Just dropped the frame and swingarm off this morning for soda blasting. Here is a hint to make you salavate. Partial vin 000002 Bill |
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 14, 2006 13:34:20 GMT -5
Thanks Bill. Hmmm, sounds interesting...
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 14, 2006 15:00:22 GMT -5
Thanks for all the input guys. I found a local automotive machine shop that can do the valves, doesn't have the proper jigging to bore the cylinder, but can also do the bead blasting (is familiar with keeping it out of certain areas, etc.). So 2 out of 3, and all I have to do is find a motorcycle oriented shop for the cylinder bore. He did give me a recommendation, so I'll check them out. That will give me the head to work on by Saturday, while I send the cylinder out for boring. And Molly'll have a nice new head in a little over a week. I'm going to have mega stupid questions on the rebuild. I have a Clymer's manual and an Yami OEM service manual, but I know I'll still get stuck. Called the shop he recommended and they bore motorcycle cylinders for $50. So, I'll drop it off with them next week. So it's a little scattered but it's getting done. |
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Post by milkman on Nov 14, 2006 22:33:09 GMT -5
Don't worry about the "mega stupid questions". You're just saving me asking......
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 18, 2006 18:52:50 GMT -5
OK kids: Got the head for my '78 back from bead blasting today (and the guy ground the valves seats). It looks WAAAAAAY better. What I decided to do to ensure no media was left, I used my wife's steam cleaner. It has a pencil point attachment that jets pressurized piping hot steam out. I went through ALL the recesses of the entire cylinder/head assembly and blasted them with this steamer. Then blew it out with compressed air until dry. Hope this gets the job done. Can't imagine ANYTHING is left after that. Here's a pic.  The cylinder goes out for boring/honing next week for the .50mm over Wiseco. Now on with the re-assembly questions: 1) I removed the valve adjusters on a couple sets of my rockers and noticed I have two types. One set with recessed allen-type head, the other with square heads (pic 1).  The square ones seem worn and rugged on the points that make contact with the valve tips (pic 2).  The allen-type, are smooth, but appear to have slightly more of the overall part worn away, again though smoothly (pic 3).  Which ones should I re-use, or do I buy new oem? 2) I noticed in taking these parts apart that the "pin dowels" on each part were assembled differently. What I mean is, some appeared to have some sort of adhesive or filler that held them in firmly (in most cases permanently!). Others had no such gunk and dropped out of the part easily. Is there some adhesive to use on the pin dowels when I re-assemble, or leave them with out any adhesive/sealer, etc? 3) Is it necessary to use gasket sealer (I know there's a recommended, genuine Yamaha type, but I can't remember it right now), on the gaskets between the rocker cover, head and cylinder? Thanks gang. Gary Hopwheels |
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Post by canucksr on Nov 18, 2006 20:29:24 GMT -5
The valve adjusters with the square top are stock SR500 parts, the ones with the hex-head are used in Yamaha Viragos or are aftermarket parts. I noticed the stock ones on my 79 SR were pitted like in your pictures so I exchanged them for the Virago type, which I got from a wreck. They seem to wear better and are easier to adjust.
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RD
Full Member
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Post by RD on Nov 19, 2006 2:33:54 GMT -5
Gary
While you have the top end apart I would recommend getting the later model rockers, the oil hole is not in the face that runs on the cam it is back at the pivot and sprays oil onto the cam and follower. A much better solution and not an expensive mod.
Cheers
Rich
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 19, 2006 10:39:19 GMT -5
Hey Rich:
Already have new originals to drop in. Is it later model SR rockers you're referring to? 80 and 81 in the US, or later models overseas? Thanks!
Gary
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RD
Full Member
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Post by RD on Nov 20, 2006 0:17:48 GMT -5
Gary
I think the modified ones are SR 400 items.
Cheers
Rich
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 20, 2006 11:07:03 GMT -5
Thanks Rich. Any input on my other questions above gents? Also, how do you get the cam bearings off? Does that also require a machine shop with a press?
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Post by sr5ooed on Nov 20, 2006 14:18:28 GMT -5
If I recall, i used a 3 jaw puller. You may be able to tap it out with a hammer, but then you can't reuse it
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Post by yamatopdog on Nov 20, 2006 20:41:09 GMT -5
Gary, as far as to cleaning parts after blasting i alway use small brushes in the parts washer and run a tap (bottoming tap on blind holes) thu all tapped holes and then use brake clean and compressed air,tedious yes but media will hide and will show up when you want it least
as far as the adgusters,from the pic, i wou'nt hesitate to use the hex headed ones
dowels and pins? if they fall out and are problematic in reasembly, use a little snot to hold them in place
sealant, the rocker to head,nessasary,i use 3 bond products i forget the #,but every dealer will carry their own line of the same stuff.
head gasket i will always install dry!
base gasket, a little spray copper cote (but i have alittle leak there so who's to tell)
cam bearing , if you remove it replace it! simple enough
Bob
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, to do the top end. Talked to him about the cruddy/corroded head and he mentioned they do some sort of an overnight chemical steam bath? Probably just a parts wash of some kind, but he said it would clean up just about anything. Didn't really want to talk to him too deeply as there was no way I was spending that kind of cash for just the top end. I'm having trouble finding a machine shop that knows bikes to do the cylinder bore and the valve work.
