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Post by StewRoss on Aug 5, 2008 6:27:34 GMT -5
Ah yes. more to do then... I have this hub to go on the DCM SOS post-classic racer, so it has to be period and so does the caliper. The AP caliper I am after is their classic racing one. It's a replica of the old Lockheeds that they made for racing a fair while back. I needed the narrow spoke width so that the twin piston caliper clears the spokes on the inside. SR
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Post by boanerges on Aug 12, 2008 23:52:12 GMT -5
I weighed up my front wheel for comparison sake. My wheel is an XS650 hub with Excel WM3 rim, SS Spokes from Buchanans. Bearings/Seals installed. Came in at 10.6 lbs (4.81kg). So, looks like it shaves off about 1.4 lbs from the weight given in Bob Paul's listing posted by Solo2Racer www.geocities.com/solo2racr/. I used a less accurate technique -- I measured the weight using a nice bathroom scale with (me + the wheel) - (just me). There is no real need to go in to the raw measurements here ;D, but the delta was about 10.6 lbs averaged over three measurements. Interested to compare moments of inertia of the systems, someday I will rig this up. Anyone do this already for the stock wheel? Anyone know how light you can get a twin-shock/street-legal SR? Bill--
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Post by boanerges on Aug 14, 2008 1:19:20 GMT -5
Wow, just weighed the Over Racing exhaust. 4.8 lbs (2.2kg) for the entire system with exhaust clamp...that's a 12.4 lbs saving over stock. This is one light exhaust! Doesn't feel like there is a lot of errr ...resistance .... in the meg My running tally of component weights compared to the published data show that I should be at about 339 lbs overall if I bolted all the stock stuff back on except for - the battery which I am taking off
- Over Racing Exhaust
- XS650 Front wheel
Bill--
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sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Aug 14, 2008 12:56:28 GMT -5
The AP caliper I am after is their classic racing one. It's a replica of the old Lockheeds that they made for racing a fair while back ... Yep, the most classical race caliper ever. Or wider yokes and a spacer... Regards Sven
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Post by StewRoss on Aug 15, 2008 2:07:34 GMT -5
Yes that's it...don't want to change the forks as they're what I want fitted...but yes you could do that as well. SR
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sven
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Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Aug 16, 2008 16:58:30 GMT -5
I weighed up my front wheel for comparison sake. My wheel is an XS650 hub with Excel WM3 rim, SS Spokes from Buchanans. Bearings/Seals installed. Came in at 10.6 lbs (4.81kg). also for comparison: my 2.15x18 tecnomag rear wheel (cast Mg, tubeless): 3.08kg = 6.79lbs incl. bearings and inner spacer 4.83kg = 10.65lbs complete with cushdrive, chainwheel & brakedisc No, hard to calculate. I think the best way to measure it will be to let it roll down an inclined plane and measure required time... That depends on the weight of your wallet of course, but I think 135kg = 300lbs should be possible. Best regards Sven
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Post by solo2racr on Aug 16, 2008 18:11:52 GMT -5
That depends on the weight of your wallet of course, but I think 135kg = 300lbs should be possible. Best regards Sven Everything else being equal, I think the weight of my single shock setup is comparable to the weight of a twin shock setup. First, the single shock is larger than one of the twin shocks. Plus the linkage and I would have to say that I'm close, probably a few pounds, lighter than a twin shock setup. With that said, I'm at 275 lbs. (125kgs)
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Post by boanerges on Aug 17, 2008 1:01:14 GMT -5
Hey thanks for the info guys. Wow, that's one light bike SCM! Don't think I will get there, but maybe 300 as Sven suggests! Going to swap out the fenders and headlight mounting brackets etc. They are pretty hefty ! I think the rear wheel (XT500) is going to build up into a pretty heavy unit! Maybe a little lighter than the stock cast wheel with the disk set up, but not much. Oh well, it sure is nice looking though.... For the MI I was just thinking of hanging the wheel on its axle and wrapping a string connected to a mass, around the rim, then timing the fall. A couple experiments with different masses would let you bias out the friction I think.... and the chances of this happening.... Bill--
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sven
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Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Aug 17, 2008 4:37:55 GMT -5
I think the rear wheel (XT500) is going to build up into a pretty heavy unit! Hi Bill! Yes, the XT500 hub is heavy, but look out for an XT250 device, it has a well designed cushdrive, a 130mm drum and is much lighter. regards Sven
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Post by boanerges on Aug 19, 2008 1:55:20 GMT -5
I finally got around to putting the lump back together again. Cleaned up the cases, chased all the threads out and cleaned up the gasket surfaces. Basically followed the same procedure a bunch of other folks on the forum have: (1) Distracted my wife (2) Put the Crank Assembly in the Freezer (about -10C is my guess) for about an hour (3) Heated the RHS case to 100 C in the oven for about 20 minutes After I took the case out, the crank slipped right into place without any "persuasion". I should remind everyone what a dangerous procedure this is if you ignore step 1 -- attempt at your own peril ! My lead mechanic watched in amazement when I pulled the RHS case out of the oven...think it gave him some ideas of his own. Reminded me of when I baked Kal Gard on to a Fiat Spider head in my Mother's oven -- man did that stink. Today's entertainment was much less ..mmmm... suspicious. I realized that I have not left the jumble of parts that used to be my SR500 alone for long enough, still remember how they go back together, so we are off on vacation (holidays) for two weeks to help forget. Take care everyone. Bill-- ps, would someone remind me to put the "small O-ring" on the oil tunnel before I seal up the case in about three weeks
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Post by boanerges on Oct 4, 2008 1:04:29 GMT -5
Well, we are back at. We pretty much have the engine back together, its starting to come together. Wiseco 90mm piston, Megacycle Cam, Headwork, Falicon Rod Dual oil line kit Barnett clutch plates and a whole bunch of other stuff. Things went together pretty well. Had some bother degreeing in the cam properly. I had to retard 7 degrees to get the exhaust lobe correct but all seems correct now. I found this shim behind the clutch basket and the large washer on the main shaft bearing. Its about 3mm. If I install it, it moves the clutch basket away from the central cases about 3mm. Can't find the shimmed listed on any of the parts catalogue images. Anyone have any ideas??? I am pretty sure this engine was apart before so I can't be sure what has been done before. Thanks for the help Bill-- ...oh, I remembered to put in the little o-ring when I joined the cases back together ;D
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Post by jeronimo on Oct 4, 2008 1:54:03 GMT -5
Hey Bill, Your bike is going to look d**n good when it's finished. I plan on sending my head, cylinder, and cases to Engine Dynamics in the near future for some of the same work you had done to yours. What kind of turn-around time did they have with your parts? Look forward to seeing your finished project. Jeron
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Post by boanerges on Oct 4, 2008 15:46:37 GMT -5
Hey Jeron:
Engine Dynamics turned my cases around in about 3 weeks. BUT, that included head work and boring the cylinder. Marvelous people to do business with. They seem to have a fair bit of experience with this engine and helped me a lot while degreeing the cam. They even had experience with the 90mm Wiseco/Megacycle cam combination. No hesitation recommending them.
One thing I shoudl point out is that the pictures I have posted flatter the finish a bit. They are not quite as shiny as the pictures show but to my eye they look fabulous. There were a couple areas of heavy oxidation on the cases that the process didnt quite get rid of but it still looks great to me.
Hope this helps.
Bill--
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Post by jeronimo on Oct 5, 2008 14:27:07 GMT -5
Bill, Yes, that was very helpful and reassuring to know. Thank You! Jeron
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sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Oct 7, 2008 13:46:33 GMT -5
I found this shim behind the clutch basket and the large washer on the main shaft bearing. Its about 3mm. If I install it, it moves the clutch basket away from the central cases about 3mm. Can't find the shimmed listed on any of the parts catalogue images. Anyone have any ideas??? I am pretty sure this engine was apart before so I can't be sure what has been done before. Later models have a different ball bearing behind the clutch. This shim is used as a kind of spacer for it's inner ring. Regards Sven
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