|
Post by boanerges on May 24, 2008 0:05:18 GMT -5
I bought my SR500E a couple months ago in Salinas. It was a runner but smoked heavily, hardly idled at all, virtually no front brakes and was encased in a coat of black paint sprayed over everything! Still there was possibility. If I squinted my eyes just the right way I could see a beautiful cafe racer making the scene at Alice's on Skyline (local Bay Area Hangout). The front brake wetted path were absolutely filled with rust and dirt. I fitted a new pads, caliper rebuild kit, braided line and master cylinder rebuild kit. Brakes are still underwhelming but serviceable for now. After I cleaned the rust out of the caliper was able to see a pitted caliper cylinder -- replaced with a new one from Thumperstuff. I have just finished stripping the red monster's engine down. The cases are safely in the hands of Engine Dynamics in Petaluma. Very nice fellow up there does a restoration finish on cases. He comes highly recommended by the local (Bay Area California) British bike shops. www.enginedynamics.com/ . The engine had a few quirks and dirty fixes from its 30 years on the planet. This is a picture of the shifter shaft -- thats a tack weld trying to hold the shifter on ! For now the chassis is sitting in the garage with a new set of Peyton Place Rearsets from Vanem, and some new shocks from Dan Kyle. Vanem has got to be the best aftermarket shop I have ever dealt with. Adrian is absolutely great -- knowledgeable, extremely helpful and fast-- couldn't be happier being his customer.
|
|
|
Post by StewRoss on May 24, 2008 2:42:40 GMT -5
It's coming along nicely I see. Ohlins are a good addition as well. Keep us informed...how much did Dan charge you for the shocks...I had a few talks etc. with him when I had my SP1. SR
|
|
|
Post by malakiblunt on May 24, 2008 3:39:06 GMT -5
Yes those Ohlins do look very tasty, but your just makeing work for your self as youve gotta make the rest of the bike look good enough to deserve them
|
|
|
Post by brazenc5 on May 24, 2008 4:15:13 GMT -5
Looking good! Do you know anyone in the south bay that does restoration on cases? I'm in San Jose, and was looking for similar work, but Petaluma is a bit of a hike!
|
|
sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
|
Post by sven on May 24, 2008 4:41:55 GMT -5
Beautyful bike! Very nicely colored! In the last pic, are the rearsets in the position they're supposed to be? Looks a bit "drag racing style" to me...
|
|
|
Post by boanerges on May 24, 2008 9:06:47 GMT -5
Ohlins were in the 750 USD range. That includes a bit for labor (oops labour) to sort them for the SR500. They started out with MX valving. Dan felt that they needed some spacers to mechanically fit up to the bike so I received sleeve bushings to fit the shock eyes to the frame mounts and some thick shim washers. BUT, actually, the stock Ohlins eyelets works fine as far as diameter goes and the washers to space out the shocks on the mount are the wrong size --don't know what sizing chart he was working off of. Anyway, that's what the lathe at work is for! Have dealt with Dan for a few years now, always helpful and does a great job. They sorted out my CBR 929 suspension nicely -- Ohlins shock, fork rebuild, damper etc... As far as case restoration goes, the engine dynamics folks seem to be the premier place locally. I sent up everything UPS. For the cases, cylinder, cylinder head, head cover, piston, valves etc it was $25.00. Way cheaper than a drive up these days Call before you do this as they have a certain (logical) way they like to receive things. Basically, include a packing list, box everything up and pack inside a larger box. After they receive the package they call back with an estimate etc.... He specializes in porting work so I am getting them to clean up the ports and match the inlet to the Keihin FCR39 flatslide. Turnaround time is about 3 weeks The rearsets are certainly just that. I really like the position but these sort of things are personal preference of course. One of my very first bikes was a brand spanking new 1980 Ducati 900ss. Since then everything else I have owned seems luxuriant! The one unexpected thing about the rearsets was the length of the peg -- very short but they seem to be comfortable and hold my foot in place.
|
|
|
Post by fenz on May 25, 2008 16:33:57 GMT -5
Looking the goods,great to see another 500 rebirth keep us all posted on your progress.
|
|
|
Post by boanerges on May 26, 2008 0:26:32 GMT -5
Forgot to mention, the Ohlins were built to a 330 mm eye to eye length. Started cleaning and polishing the case covers. First thing I noticed was a crack in the clutch cover case. This picture shows the crack viewed from the inside -- the black paint obscured the crack from the outside If anybody needs a clutch cover that could be repaired give me a shout. Was able to get a new one from BikeaBandit. I went after the generator cover and countershaft sprocket cover with paint strip (disgusting), wet/dry 220, 320, 400, 600 then Tripoli on a 2000 RPM wheel. I sanded in a water bath with a little bit of dish soap. The detergency of the soap did help keep particles away from loading up the sandpaper. I haven't gone any further with the polishing for now but will likely go to a finer polishing compound to see what happens. Was interested to see that some compound manufacturers suggest heating the piece to be polished before going to the wheel. Seems to help keep the wheel from loading up. Does anyone have a more modern polishing "Recipe"? This is basically the same recipe I used on my 1978 GS1000 cases in the early 90's. Worked OK but there must be more effective methods out there? Maybe we could post a sticky on the site with the "preferred" SR500 polishing recipe ;D. Has anyone tried anything on the case covers likes Nickel Plate or Clear Anodizing? Would like to get something "shiny" without the polishing up keep. I have good intentions when in comes to polishing but just know I would fall behind. I remember the sorry state of my GS1000 cases a year or so after I polished them up. Also like to find a plating process for the XS 650 Hub I am lacing up for the front. Always such a nuisance to polish up between the spokes. Have heard some people have had success with clear powder coat. Any thoughts??? Here are a couple of shots of the slug thats going in (on the left) compared to the old stocker Yamaha piston (right). Its the 90mm Wiseco 11:1. Mark Apland recons that an 80thou copper head gasket should bring the compression down to about 10:1. Was a bit concerned with the cam chain length since I would be increasing the total chain path length by moving the camshaft centre away from the cam chain drive sprocket on the crank. Mark says this will work out just fine and seems to be a popular mod. Again, any advice/direction/warnings appreciated! Thanks for the help/advice and encouragement. Bill--
|
|
wimpy
Junior Member
Suzuki TL1000s, Honda VFR400 NC30, Yamaha SR500
Posts: 34
|
Post by wimpy on May 26, 2008 1:45:21 GMT -5
What cam are you using? I am installing that piston with a Megacycle 25162 cam. Deepening of the inlet valve pocket was a necessity! Looking good. Cheers
|
|
|
Post by StewRoss on May 26, 2008 2:08:25 GMT -5
Mate, for the cracked cover, have a bead of TIG weld run over the crack and carefully clean off the resulting damage. You should be able to do it so you can hardly tell, or not tell at all. SR
|
|
|
Post by malakiblunt on May 26, 2008 4:31:58 GMT -5
If your going to weld cracks in castings its always a good idea to drill the ends of the cracks before welding, if you dont have a Tig you could also make the rapair with aluminum ' brazeing ' rod. With the poilshing, your nearly ther just finish it up with a glossing compound and a lose leaf mop. polishing is always hard work because of all the sanding, but you just have to do the work to get a flat surface to polish, Flap disks in an angle grinder followed by flap wheels in a drill i find if you take it down to 240g, you can then switch to a cutting compound on the mop. the mistake is not geting rid of all the scratches from the previous grit, you cant go to 240 untill youve got all the 80g scratches out with the 120! Anyway, its all looking realy good, keep the pictures comeing
|
|
|
Post by boanerges on May 26, 2008 12:52:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the case repair tips. Maybe I will keep the old case cover and fix it up when I get time. There are a few other deep gouges in it so it could take some effort!
I have the 251-40 cam in hand -- any thoughts on this grind with the 540 piston. Looking for something easy to live with -- starts and idles well and lots of easy torque on tight roads -- loads of that around here.
Thanks
Bill--
|
|
sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
|
Post by sven on May 26, 2008 14:31:09 GMT -5
I have the 251-40 cam in hand - tractor cam shouldn't be a problem with the pockets due to little valve lift in tdc. (mc says o.k. with stock piston, but always check yourself!) I'd suggest mc 251-30 with R&D spring kit. Regards Sven
|
|
|
Post by boanerges on Jun 6, 2008 21:19:53 GMT -5
Freshly pressed crankshaft with new Falicon Con Rod undergoing incoming inspection by the lead mechanic on this project. Crank was assembled by A&A racing in San Carlos -- if you are ever in the Bay Area this is a must see place. I think it was featured in Classic Bike a couple months back --its the flat-track racing shop that had the pet mountain lion. We had a look at the Flat-tracker TZ-750 that they built up out of Robert's spares and an engine from UK. Roberts never raced it but they have pictures of the King Riding it. Amazing place.....the odd SR hanging around too. Lots of XR-750s, XS650s etc. They make hubs, triples etc for SR/XT/TT .
|
|
|
Post by boanerges on Jun 14, 2008 16:10:30 GMT -5
The engine cases and head have come back from Engine Dynamics. They look just great. They look just like a new set of cases -- not a bead blasted or vapour blasted look -- just a "like new" casting look. Not sure if I prefer this or the vapour blasted look better but they do look great regardless. He really has an interesting process. The head has new stock valves and aftermarket bronze valve guides, R&D Springs with Ti Retainer. The intake was matched to the Keihin FCR 39 Flatslide Carb manifold. The ports were cleaned up and relieved a bit. The finish is much smoother than what shows in the picture. The flash enhanced all the small scale surface features. Left and right engine cases. Hard to imagine that old black paint on these beauties! Left and right of the top end. Cylinder was bored to 90mm for the Weisco piston. Looks like its time to start building this thing back up. Having some trouble getting the head mounting studs out of the cylinder. Got three out and three to go -- any tips??? Thanks Bill--
|
|