lurch
Full Member
Posts: 217
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Post by lurch on Sept 6, 2006 6:10:47 GMT -5
Two questions 1 Would I be correct in thinking that if I connect an oil cooler to the SR that the input side should be fitted to the return oil hose & the output side goes back to the oil tank ,not the frame in my case as I'm using a separate oil tank mounted where the air box & battery used to go . I am using a XJ550 fuel tank and is doesn't fit right with the original oil dipstick in place so I have ground off the threaded stub and welded a blanking plate over the hole . 2 Does anyone know what the oil pressure would be in the original rubber oil lines ? as I will need to extend the oil lines to reach my new oil tank & was thinking of using worm drive hose clamps as its much easier than getting threaded unions made up ,but don't relish the thought of one of the oil lines blowing off while I'm thumping down the hi way  Thanks lurch |
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Post by StewRoss on Sept 6, 2006 7:18:23 GMT -5
Hi, You take the return line from the top of the cases and route it to the cooler....the return from the cooler then goes to the oil tank. Nor sure about the actual oil pressure; however a lot of the oil coolers are clamped with the clamps that you refer to...I still prefer threaded fittings myself...probably a hangover from working on aircraft, plus it looks better...you then need a suitable oil cooler with threaded fittings though... What style of bike are you making? SR  |
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lurch
Full Member
Posts: 217
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Post by lurch on Sept 7, 2006 5:46:36 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice Stew ;D
I'm building a Cafe racer style bike using a XJ550 tank ,custom hexagonal chromed oil tank mounted where the battery & and air box was , single seat , polished rebuilt wire wheels with stainless spokes ,double disc's ,braided hoses ,clip ons etc
I'm looking for rear sets at the moment ,it should be easy enough to modify a set off a more modern bike like a gsxr suzi or similar
I'll get the rolling chassis together first then I'll start on the engine .
I have just bought a "hot-Cam" off ebay its made by Newman here in the UK . I think its one of there wilder spec cams
all i know about it so far is that the valves open a extra 1.5mm
I was thinking of also fitting a Wiseco hi comp piston kit 11/1 ratio
but I'm not to sure if the valves will clear the piston crown ,does anyone have experience of the mod ? don't fancy having the valves bouncing on the new piston
I can email you a photo of the work in progress if you want Stew ?
Cheers
Lurch
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Post by StewRoss on Sept 7, 2006 7:24:29 GMT -5
Hi, Good stuff another cafe racer...yes I'd be interested in seeing how it's going...sross2@vtown.com.au. Rearsets are not hard to make; my next ones are going to have the levers pivoting around the peg...makes for a better feel on the gearshift I reckon. One good thing regarding the pegs on the SR is that you have the two rubber isolated, mounting bolts to easily attach anything else that you make...nice and simple. As for the piston clearances etc. they need to be carefully checked, especially as you have a higher lift cam as well. I use plasticene in the valve pockets and I'd also check the squish as well. You don't want anything contacting inside. Use the piston manufacturers clearance suggestions here...the process is a bit slow and involves assembling the engine then pulling it apart again...but it is (usually) necessary. As I said in another post somewhere, I have an SR/XT piston here with a large hole in the top...and a snapped exhaust valve with it. Messy . SR |
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Post by pagoda on Sept 7, 2006 16:47:10 GMT -5
would love to see photos of the build so far... it may be enough to convince me to keep my sr for a cafe bike...
ian@ianmaclean.com
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Post by hopwheels on Oct 16, 2006 10:17:56 GMT -5
This sounds like a great one for pics in the new build up section lurch. Love to see the progress!
Gary
Hopwheels
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Post by shibuyagas78 on Oct 23, 2006 4:04:38 GMT -5
I'm not sure if you can these parts in your part of the world but we use Earls fittings. You can buy a Kit made for the SR, it has two peices one fitting goes into the case in the place of the original oil line, the other onto the oil tank (frame) fitting, then you can make your lines to length and just bolt them on using the correct hose fittings and earl mesh lines, saves messy looking attachments onto the old original chopped fittings, you can then choose what ever fittings are suited to the cooler or tank on the other ends, saves hours of work chopping up old oil lines and getting them rewelded with the old fitting. Looks very pro aswell.
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Post by StewRoss on Oct 23, 2006 15:29:16 GMT -5
Hi, Ah, I want one of those kits! You have any? SR  |
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Post by christer on Oct 23, 2006 15:46:58 GMT -5
Hi. If you allow it....a little joke. Move to Norway, and you won't need oil coolers. Christer |
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Post by StewRoss on Oct 23, 2006 15:50:41 GMT -5
Hi Christer, Yes, I live in Canberra and that's cold enough in the Winter for me...probably not cold by your standards though...Summer is coming up for us now thankfully. SR |
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Post by StewRoss on Oct 26, 2006 6:15:31 GMT -5
Hi Shibuyagas.... Can you get those kits in natural alloy coloured fittings? Clear anodised... SR  |
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Post by shibuyagas78 on Oct 26, 2006 9:35:33 GMT -5
Hi Stew,
posted a pic to your email. I might be able to do them in just plain alloy, but will chat to the guys here. Depends on the next run they do of them. They set up the CNC machine to do the work etc and pump out 100kits at a time, so if they are stocked and not reproducing for a while then i have to get what they have so that would mean blue or blue..... you might be able to just buff it or lightly garnish with fine sand or beads??? I will check the earls kits as well, they might do plain alloy.
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Post by milkman on Oct 26, 2006 15:22:54 GMT -5
Stew, if you're really after natural alloy finish, there was an article in Street Machine a year or two ago regarding a hotted up Gemini that nearly won Summernats. This fella (Drago?) had highly polished his fittings. They ran an article on how to do this in a subsequent issue through boiling them in solution on the stove.
I'll try and see where I put it.......
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Post by mildmitch on Oct 29, 2006 21:43:21 GMT -5
I remember Carb cleaner doing the trick or probably brake fluid as well. Then polish or rub out anyway.
We've removed Black anodising from wheels the same way to achieve a polished aluminum finish.
And, I'm interested in the Kit as well!
Mitch
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Post by StewRoss on Nov 4, 2006 1:16:12 GMT -5
Hi, How are we going on this topic?...Adrian...how are these bits going? Any new info??? SR  |
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