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Post by cru57y on Jun 2, 2007 3:34:09 GMT -5
Thanks to members Aero and 1980thumper for inspiring me to do some research. I came across this bit of info.
Battery Eliminator
Tired of replacing the battery or acid leaking on your pipes? Replace it with a 50,000-mfd, 16VDC computer grade capacitor.
What to do:
1. Remove battery.
2. Wrap capacitor in ¼” to ½” foam sponge rubber extending over each end of capacitor and tape it so it will not come off. The foam should be thick enough so the capacitor is a snug fit in the battery box.
3. Connect the black lead (-) to a clean tight ground. Remove paint and use serrated washer under ground lead bolt.
4. Connect the red lead (+) as the battery hot lead was connected.
Installation test:
1. Turn lights off.
2. Start bike and run for at least one minute.
3. Turn bike off.
4. Turn ignition on, neutral lamp should light for 5 to 15 seconds. (Capacitor should hold this charge for days)
System check with bike running:
1. Connect voltmeter across ground and capacitor hot lead.
2. At 1500 RPM or above, voltmeter should read 13-15 volts with a steady meter, that is, the reading should not change or bounce around.
3. With the lights on, voltage should be 12 volts or above if RPM is 1500 or above.
4. At 1500 RPM or below, voltage will drop if turn signals or brake light are used.
Note: If voltage readings at 1500 RPM are above 16 volts or below 12 volts, the voltage regulator is probably defective. This also causes short bulb life.
The battery eliminator solves a number of problems:
1. Battery acid leaking on pipes, wheels, etc.
2. Frequent battery replacement due to vibration.
3. Elimination of battery weight.
4. Voltage swings of defective battery resulting in weak spark, CDI failure, light failure, etc.
Disadvantages of battery eliminator are:
1. Lights won’t work if bike is not running.
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Post by StewRoss on Jun 2, 2007 4:45:20 GMT -5
Hi, Interesting info Don. I have one of these sitting here for one of the SR's (Japanese one) and I run a capacitor on the black cafe racer. One of the guys from here, Dave, fitted a Posh one to his SR and it worked well. His blinkers even ran fairly well at idle...unusual. How's the SR coming along? SR  |
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Post by cru57y on Jun 2, 2007 17:44:02 GMT -5
G'Day Stew,
I've done nothing to the SR as yet, except dream of bits I'd like to buy of the internet. I spent saturday doing things with 'Her indoors'. Today I'm determined to get a start on mounting that tank.
Cheers.
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Post by davedunsboro on Jun 3, 2007 6:54:45 GMT -5
Thats a great bit of info on the capacitor unit I'll keep that in the workshop for future . Wouldn't it be cool if inspiration & cash turned up at the same time ? Cheers from Dave.
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rickg
Junior Member
Posts: 31
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Post by rickg on Jun 15, 2007 11:54:00 GMT -5
From reading the numerous posts on this subject I assume that the battery eliminator sold on ebay or by thumperstuff are nothing more than a capicitor in a bit of resin in a plastic case, which leads me to my question. Is there an advantage to the unit sold by thumperstuff over a plain capictor you install your self? I would love to eliminate the battery to save maintance hassles. Is there a problem in that the US bikes can not turn off the head light? It would seem the capicitor would discharge each time the ing. is turned on, does the alt need voltage to excite it for charging or is this a moot point in that as soon as the bike is running it" generates" voltage.
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Post by miker on Jun 15, 2007 14:29:07 GMT -5
The SR has a permanant magnet alternator so it doesn't need the battery to develop a magnetic field (unlike the XS650!)
I remember installing a capacitor in a 60's Triumph TR6 back in the day. It was only a cap and a big spring that it fitted into - that's one way to handle vibration! Worked ok but starting was easier if the headlight was off.
miker
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Post by hopwheels on Jun 15, 2007 14:59:04 GMT -5
run one of the eBay ones (Bat Pac) on my '79. The light and indicators work weird at idle and low revs. Other than that starts fine, etc.
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Post by Bize on Jul 28, 2007 8:18:26 GMT -5
I've been looking into these battery eliminators, but the problem I have is that my SR is one of the newer models so has an imobiliser/coded key set up.
Apparently you can hook up and eliminator with a space saver battery inline, but I haven't found any specifics (I've been told that a lot of SRs in Japan are set up this way).
Has anyone here got any info?
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Post by miker on Jul 30, 2007 10:48:07 GMT -5
My educated guess is that just getting a smaller battery would be a better solution than getting an eliminater AND a space saver battery. The battery (sort of) performs the function of the capacitor when its there.
miker
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Post by wotavidone on Jul 30, 2007 19:32:04 GMT -5
After much consideration and weighing of pros and cons, e.g. weight loss versus indicators not working reliably, and South Oz cops expecting to be able to turn your ignition switch on and check your horn and indicators, without the bike running, etc, I have concluded the weight loss gained by swapping to a acapacitor is not justified. I might one day try a different battery setup, say Nickel Metal Hydride, or Gates cells or something, or maybe if I can score a serious super cap, but not an ordinary capacitor.
Mick
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Post by Bize on Jul 31, 2007 5:14:28 GMT -5
Miker: The problem was that the "space saver" battery wouldn't be adequate alone, once the bike was running. Although I've done a bit more research and found that for my bike it's all a bit academic as it's not just the immobiliser. Apparently the ignitions system is different in the newer models too, so the battery eliminators aren't an option.
I also saw an SR today with the airbox removed but still running the original battery hidden under the seat. (I don't know if the older SR batteries are the same, but the one in my model is quite narrow.
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Post by flyereddie on Jul 31, 2007 5:38:10 GMT -5
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Post by StewRoss on Aug 4, 2007 4:27:51 GMT -5
I have just fitted a Daytona Battery Less Kit (eliminator) to my road going (standardish) SR. I had one sitting around waiting for my new cafe racer to use when it's done...but my 'roadie's' battery was cactus so I decided to try it out. What a great little thing! Although I only started it up in the garage (...at night) the indicators and headlight worked much better than with the worn battery, the indicators flashed brighter and faster as well. With it all going, ie, headlight, indicators, brake light (pulsed a little), the horn was loud and strong. That was at idle. This is very much better than the old capacitor fitted to my black cafe racer, so that's well and truly 'for the high jump' and one is going onto it as well. It is well worth the effort and you save pretty well the entire weight of the battery. The Daytona eliminator weighs very little and doesn't cost too much either...dearer than a battery but totally maintenance free! If you want one, try Vanem or Deus for a start... I helped Dave fit a Posh one to his SR a while back. That one worked very well too. I'm impressed. SR  |
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Post by pablosrfivehundred on Aug 6, 2007 19:05:44 GMT -5
i just got one today off ebay $23 shipped.
from BAT-PAC.
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Post by Bize on Aug 27, 2007 1:37:58 GMT -5
Since my earlier posts, I've done a bit of research and it would seem that the battery eliminator for late model 400s isn't an option. Having said that, it not all bad news. I've also found out just how small the actual battery on my bike is. For all of you who aren't familiar with the SR400, I thought you might be interested to see what it's battery looks like. It's quite a bit different to the 500's battery:  |
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