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Post by StewRoss on Aug 27, 2007 3:36:44 GMT -5
Wow that is small isn't it...might be an option if the battery eliminator doesn't work out for the new CR...lot smaller than the old SR battery and able to mounted anyway you like I'd say. Have you got the exact dimensions for it? What amperage is it? SR
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Post by Bize on Aug 28, 2007 5:55:13 GMT -5
Here you go Stew: GT4B-5 112 x 83 x 37 mm 12V 2.5AHYou'd also have to get/fabricate the connector. Also, on my bike, the main fuse is located in this connector.
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Post by StewRoss on Aug 31, 2007 2:06:13 GMT -5
Hi Bize, Thanks for the info. I'll do some measuring and it might be a possible backup. SR
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Post by joneill4 on Sept 6, 2007 13:31:43 GMT -5
Is a 50,000-mfd, 16VDC computer grade capacitor actually in a PC computer? If so, how does one identify it?
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chief
Junior Member
Posts: 35
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Post by chief on Sept 20, 2007 6:07:17 GMT -5
Not sure whats in the computer, but ive got the 50,000 VDC "White Brothers" eliminator, good price and you will never want a battery again,no problems exept as was said earlier you cant run anything without the bike running. White Brothers is another brand you could possibly look at, if your looking at price.
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Post by miker on Sept 20, 2007 12:47:00 GMT -5
If there, the cap would be a round metal can, probably greater in length than diameter and covered with some kind of plastic film (often blue). The voltage and capacity should be printed on it, 50,000 uf (or mfd) and 16VDC or greater.
miker
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Post by aero on Sept 21, 2007 23:20:51 GMT -5
You need an 'electrolytic' type of capacitor, that one where the terminals are marked '-' and '+'. You need one of suitably large capacity (the number of micro farads) and able to handle the voltage, (Volts rating). Values between 6,800 and 15,000 microfarads are good. If you go for a bigger size two things happen; one, when you switch on the ignition you get a massive surge of power as the capacitor discharges. Two, the price of the capacitor rises very steeply above 15,000 micro farads. The one in the computer power supply won't be up to the job unless its an unusually heavy duty power supply. You must select a voltage 50% higher then the normal operating voltage to ensure your capacitor doesn't convert itself to a conductor! The battery is charged at 14.7 volts, so a 25 volt capacitor should be used. The insulator inside a capacitor is easily damaged by voltage spikes or surges which is why a higher value is always choosen. You could also use a 40 volt capacitor. You can pick these up on ebay very cheaply if you buy according to size and rating rather then intended purpose
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Post by johnprestwich on Dec 12, 2007 7:00:14 GMT -5
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Post by johnprestwich on Dec 12, 2007 7:21:15 GMT -5
oops. should have specified, it's the 12V 1.3Ah 97 x 43 x 52mm 0.6kg model.
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Post by racer32 on Oct 17, 2008 11:23:29 GMT -5
Thought I'd bump this up...has anyone tried a 6300mfd 30V cap? Another posts mentions 6800, but I found some that were 6300mfd.
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Post by miker on Oct 17, 2008 13:21:56 GMT -5
I was keeping track as various people posted, I decided a 10,000uf was the minimum I'd use, but a 6300 should work, you might have a little more flicker at low rpm that's all.
miker
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staffy
Junior Member
Posts: 92
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Post by staffy on Oct 19, 2008 10:23:04 GMT -5
Wondering if anyone is running a battery eliminator with led tail lights and indicators and if they've had any problems. It seems from comments on this thread that it wouldn't be necessary but i've heard the led's draw less power so it might leave a bit more for important stuff like ignition.
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Post by solo2racr on Oct 19, 2008 12:25:08 GMT -5
The ignition and lighting/charging systems are totally separate from each other. But it is true that LED's draw less current than incandescent bulbs.
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Post by StewRoss on Oct 25, 2008 3:23:39 GMT -5
I've had a few issues with one of mine, so I'll wait until I am sure of what I am saying...the charging system is being tested as I write...or nearly anyway... SR
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Post by davedunsboro on Oct 25, 2008 9:10:27 GMT -5
I've been playing around with gelcels (I scored a dozen 12v out of a UPS) they are half the weight of a lead acid & no maintenence .They seem to work OK with the SR charging system so I'll keep testing & riding .Cheers Dave.
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