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Post by bigshingle on Mar 27, 2008 9:40:37 GMT -5
Does anyone have any idea about what keeps the cam-chain guide screws in place? I'm finally getting around to putting the SR's engine back together. — I just put the cam-chain guide on the cylinder (arrow up) and am about to set the cylinder in place. I may have an over-active imagination, but the original chain guide screws are phillips-head and look like they could easily vibrate loose. I'd rather not have that happen — not ever — but especially inside a new engine. The original screws were hard as hell to get out and took a beating, so I'm replacing them with hex-head bolts (which can be snugged down tighter than phillips-heads.) Should I also used lock-washers? (No lock washers originally.) How about Lok-Tite? Or am I worrying about nothing? The bolts are steel and going into holes threaded in aluminum, so it would be easy as pie to over-tighten them and strip the threads. Oddly, these seem to be the only fasteners for which the Yamaha manual doesn't give torque specs. It may be that as the engine heats up the difference in the expansion rates of steel and aluminum possibly causes the screws to be seized tighter ( ) Otherwise, I can't see what keeps the screws from coming loose and raising hell inside the engine. Any thoughts on this? All advice appreciated.
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Post by andy on Mar 27, 2008 11:20:44 GMT -5
bigshingle,no worries mate,i recently done a top end rebuild mine too were tight to undo,if youve not damaged the originals re-use them,a spot of thread loc wont hurt if your bothered,i've never heard of them coming undone, i did actually replace my screws with domehead allen screws and didnt use washers,just remember if you use bolts and washers make sure they dont protrude to high or they will foul the gaskets top and bottom of the cylinder faces. regards,Andy
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Post by colinjay on Mar 27, 2008 16:27:29 GMT -5
Hi there,
I have had many a SR/TT/XT engine apart and fitted new camchain cuides and put them back together with the std philips head screws on the guide. I hav not had any problems with the screw coming undone nor have I ever heard of them comming loose. If it give you a bit more piece of mind, a bit of loctite screw lock won't hurt.
CJ
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Post by davewfc603 on Mar 27, 2008 23:45:42 GMT -5
simply put use locktight on every part that is going to vibrate off that bike, medium strength for most & a little high strength when you need it, even on the speedo cable, good luck Dave
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Post by bigshingle on Mar 28, 2008 9:39:45 GMT -5
Many thanks to everyone.
Yeah, Andy, I did make a mess out of the phillips heads getting them off. I could only get one off myself, and the machine shop that did the re-bore managed to get the other one out — although not without some trouble. (They had to get the guide out before they could work on the cylinder.)
I replaced the screws with hex heads (no washers — if Colinjay's never had any problems, it seems like I can find better things to worry about.) The head-height of the bolts looks to be the same as the screws and everything fit back together okay. I used Lok-Tite medium and cranked the bolts down as tight as courage would allow.
davewfc603, I think you're right, I'm going to start using Lok-Tite a lot more than I have been.
Yamaha must have had some reason for using phillips heads instead of hex-heads, but I'm at a loss to figure out what that would have been. A 185 c.c. Yamaha I had actually came with phillips heads on the oil filter cover as well as the side cases. A couple of filter changes and the heads were done for. Every other Yamaha I've had used allen heads, so I bought a handful of allen heads and changed them all.
Hard to say why manufacturers do some of the things they do.
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Post by fenz on Mar 28, 2008 16:05:20 GMT -5
Mild loctite is a winner (screw loc) just watch out for the stronger stuff as you will struggle to undo it. I work in a pulp/paper industry and we use the stuff all the time in a lot of different aplications and it certainly is good stuff.
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