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Post by fe2cruz on Sept 29, 2007 18:39:14 GMT -5
Hi all,
I got that SR500 with the sidecar. The subframe
blocks access to my oil pan. I couldn't fit even a
short hex bit into all the pan bolts. There's no space
for a regular box wrench to get at the drain plug so
even a ratcheting one wouldn't help. Most of the
subframe is welded or bolted tight and then
welded so removing the frame is not an option.
There is a misclaneous piece I could cut off, but
I'd hope that be my last resort.
Any way I fired up the bike got it warm and running.
I drained the oil from the frame easy. The oil filter
let some out too. Is there anyway to access the oil
pan from another location with a tube and siphon
the rest of the oil out? Since .3 liters stays in the
bike anyway, can I just leave the bit of oil in the
pan and move on?
Also, I don't think I have the wet sumping issue;
is there an easy check for that?
thanks,
christiaan
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Post by sjef on Sept 30, 2007 4:34:57 GMT -5
hallo christiaan,
remove the engine, it is less than one hour work,
remove the oilpan weld a new oiltap/plug on it in such a way that it is accessible when build in your frame.
regards sjef
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Post by joneill4 on Oct 1, 2007 13:05:27 GMT -5
Could you please post some pics? I'd love to have a sidecar. Have you ridden it yet?
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Post by fe2cruz on Oct 1, 2007 17:07:38 GMT -5
scroll down for a pic from an older post: sr500forum.proboards38.com/index.cgi?board=Suspension&action=display&thread=1182508981&page=1Its got new tires now and its very fun to ride. All torque, and vibration. The subframe is locked tight and solid abut I have to double check smaller license frame bolts and other odds and ends that rattle loose easily. I think I might cheat and just loosen the kickside case cover, take off the sidecar wheel, tip the bike over and pour the oil out. Andy from the yahoo forum says I might get more oil out that way. Then I will wait till I get the right cutoff tool and try to remove some extra bits on my subframe to try to get more access to the drain plug. If that doesn't work I'll pull out the engine and make a new drainplug. It doesn't seem like I can get a hose into the bottom pan from another location easily. |
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Post by wotavidone on Oct 1, 2007 19:28:42 GMT -5
You have to be able to pull the sump off an SR engine, anyway. There is a screen in there that should be cleaned occaisionally.
I cheated and just drained the oil from my XT frame, when I wanted new oil in between scheduled oil changes. This took nearly 2 litres to fill back up, and the book says it only takes 2.1 for a full change with filter. So, I don't reckon getting full drainage of oil is an issue, but I do reckon getting that screen out and cleaning it every now and then is.
Mick
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Post by fe2cruz on Oct 1, 2007 20:52:36 GMT -5
You have to be able to pull the sump off an SR engine, anyway. There is a screen ... I heard the chances of the screen getting blocked are low. If the oil system is filled properly by bleeding the air out and filling it between some runs so only 2 liters fits before the dipstick shows full I was told the screen should be clear. I might be able to get the sump/pan off if I use a dremel tool to trim a 5mm hex bit though. Now that I think about it, modifying a hexbit so I can get the pan off might be more practical. Will the sump/pan need a new gasket? |
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Post by wotavidone on Oct 1, 2007 22:48:35 GMT -5
Sometimes you get the sump off without damaging the gaskets, other times it sticks and tears.
I have a sheet of about 0.8 to 1.0 mm gasket paper, and it only takes a few minutes to make a new one.
I reckon the odds of the screen blocking are pretty low. It appears it is the screen for the return/scavenging side of the oil flow, and the oil at this point should be pretty good, except unless you clash the gears a lot as you ride, then you might get a bit of metal maybe.
Mick
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Post by fe2cruz on Oct 14, 2007 2:10:15 GMT -5
Got the plug & oil out, but I'm still scared.
The manual says there is another
screen filter in the pipe just below
the front frame drain plug.
Mine had no screen. Is it important?
Do I have to get it replaced? Do they
even make them?
Also the manual said to crank the kick
several times to get any remaining oil
out. I felt kinda scared doing that.
All that metal getting naked and rubbing
without any oil to protect it. Is it safe?
Where in the sump does the last bit of oil
get stuck anyway; back middle side?
Is there an angle you could tip the bike to
have it drain slowly directly out from the
bottom rear drain plug?
thanks again!
christiaan
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Post by wotavidone on Oct 14, 2007 22:50:24 GMT -5
Mate, try not to worry so much. Motorcycling is supposed to be about relaxation and stuff like that.
Drain the frame, if possible drain the motor with the plug at the bottom, fit a new filter and fill 'er up.
Then keep your eye open on ebay until you see one of the screened fittings that screw into the bottom of the frame. They do come up, and it would be a good idea to have one.
In the meantime, I reckon if you keep changing the oil fairly regularly, you won't have a problem. I reckon I read somewhere the other day that the first XL500 Hondas did not even have filters, so its probably not the end of the world, if you have a screen missing.
This is assuming you do not have a frame full of crap.
Think about it - how many of the "specials" with separate tanks do you see that have screens in the outlets?
As for kicking the thing over to get the last dregs of oil out - hardly necesarry in my personal opinion - but I also think it unlikely to be harmful if you actually do it.
Cheer up and fill 'er up.
Mick
PS, you did wind out the big fitting that the front hose connects to, didn't you? About a 27 or 28mm socket to undo it?
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Post by fe2cruz on Oct 15, 2007 2:27:15 GMT -5
PS, you did wind out the big fitting that the front hose connects to, didn't you? About a 27 or 28mm socket to undo it? Yes thats the big fitting screen thing. I thought it is was a small thin screen like for a pipe, but after looking at the microfiche: www.yamahasportsplaza.com/pages/parts/home.aspx I realized that big piece is what the manual is talking about. I do have it but I'm missing the 26mm or 27mm box wrench in my tool kit. The autozones here lend out their sockets and if they don't have one I priced them at $7 at my ind/hardware store. Sorry for seeming so anal and lost. I am enjoying myself. I just like sites like this to cover all these little things that bother me. Like when you can't remember the name of a song or something. I know I can fill it up right now and run, but since its my sidecar rig for groceries and junk anyway I'm not in a hurry. So yeah "Scared" might of been too strong. Maybe more like inquisitive & slow. I have another naked bike completely finished for riding all year round. |
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Post by wotavidone on Oct 15, 2007 17:57:01 GMT -5
They lend out their tools? That is definitely a nice part of the world you live in.
Mick
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Post by curly001 on Oct 15, 2007 18:19:21 GMT -5
Buy yourself a 27mm socket or wrench it also fits the cam chain adjustment nut cover.
curly
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Post by fe2cruz on Oct 16, 2007 2:45:45 GMT -5
Buy yourself a 27mm socket or wrench it also fits the cam chain adjustment nut cover. curly OK cool glad you posted. I was eyeballing the mm with a ruler so I wasn't completely sure if it was 26 or 27. Yeah, the Autozone chain here in California loans the bulky wierd tools for cars that you only rarely need and some sockets. The fragile digital stuff they let you use in the parking lot for a few minutes. For the tools all you have to do is pay for them regular price, then you get your money back when you return it. There are even 24 hour autozones with larger shelf stock in each major county in southern california. All for home consumers. It is a piston and highway culture here for sure; no way to hide it. Shameless plug yes, I don't work for them no. |
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