helen
New Member
Posts: 1
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Post by helen on Jun 19, 2007 12:23:43 GMT -5
Hi
Does anyone know whether the cam chain can be fitted already joined, or does it have to be joined after the cylinder head has been built up?
The one I've bought isn't joined, but the one in the Haynes manual looks like it's endless, but I can't be sure.
It's be a lot easier for me to take the chain somewhere for the link to be put in first, then fit it to the engine, if this is possible.
Thanks,
Helen
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Post by miker on Jun 19, 2007 16:44:06 GMT -5
Looks to me like it can be put on endless, but you have to remove the cam gear from the top end and the primary drive gear from the bottom end (inside the right hand case). So it looks like it could be done given that depth of disassembly. If you do this, it sounds like it is worthwhile being obsessive about the little pin on the back of the cam gear.  The Haynes book shows a master link in a drawing on page 36, but neither Haynes nor Clymer say anything about splitting the cam chain. My old Yamaha service manual doesn't either. Caveat: I haven't done it, just my opinion from looking at the manuals. miker |
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Post by colinjay on Jun 19, 2007 17:33:32 GMT -5
As Miker said, you can remove and replace the cam chain as an endless loop by removing the primary crankshaft gear and lower camchain sprocket.
When I worked for a Yamaha dealer back in the early 80's, we used to "break" the old camchain and then feed the new one through using the old chain to pull it thru, then join the new chain with the rivet link. In fact Yamaha actually made a camchain breaker/riveter as a special tool designed to break and join the roller camchains used and most japanese bike of the period, (in fact, I still have one in my box of special tools). I have used the same tool to break and rejoin the Morse hyvo (link plate) cam chains used in some of the later model Hondas.
CJ
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Post by milkman on Jun 20, 2007 12:59:41 GMT -5
Reading the latest Issue of VMX (Vintage Motocoss Magazine), with the SR500 build up special by Carl from caferacer.com.au, they say they install the Cam Chain unbroken on mos toccasions.
Though they usually strip down all engines completely, just from reading the article.
One of the lads here gave us a heads up about the series. Its a good read.
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Post by davedunsboro on Jun 21, 2007 6:25:42 GMT -5
I have done a couple by firstly you count the links in the old chain , then you make sure the new chain is the same amount of links (very important) . I completely rap a white sheet around the area (like surgery) , using a die grinder I grind the stubbs off the top outer link at the top of the cam gear ( that stops it from falling anywhere) .Then you vacuum & clean up the mess (this has to be done very thoroughly) & remove the sheet . Then the link that I've removed I take the pins out as well (in the vise with the die grinder) then I get acouple of small nuts & bolts & bolt the new chain to the rear of the front facing chain using the 2 outside links . Then ( with the sparkplug removed & decompression lever wired up) you can wind the chain all the way through . If done right the timing doesn't even change (but mark everything with a paint marker just in case) .You will need a joining link though (the chains I've purchased have been longer & have come with this item). This info may or may not help you bet cheers and good luck with it from Dave . PS I usually get one of my kids to help me with the winding through bit !
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Post by wizz954 on Jun 25, 2007 7:14:06 GMT -5
I just fitted an endless chain and it's relatively straightforward. I won't go into details on timing the cam as this is covered in the manuals.
The clutch plates and clutch basket have to come out and so does the nut on the end of the crankshaft to remove the gear that drives the clutch. This then allows you to unhook the camchain off the bottom sprocket on the crank and then you can pull the chain out from around the crank.
To undo the crank nut, you put a rag between the primary drive gear and the gear on the clutch basket to lock them together. The clutch basket nut is the harder one to undo. If you don't have a rattle gun, undo it while the engine is still in the bike so you can lock the crank.
Hope that helps you decide which way to go.
Rick
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