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Post by brokenicarus on Jun 4, 2007 14:58:30 GMT -5
So I've royally screwed up again, this time so royally I actually drew a diagram... please bear with me   So: I wanted to adjust my cam chain tension, my clymer's manual tells me to loosen the locknut, which I decide is Figure B. It's already a bit rounded from the previous owners, but it looks ok so I turn it counter-clockwise using a 10mm socket. it proceeds to round off further, and doesn't budge. Now, if I can get it to budge, using the two cutouts yamaha's designed into it, how do I do this thing properly? Do I loosen Figure C first? or Figure B, which caused the original rounding of the nut head? In short, how do I adjust my cam chain without destroying my bike? and am I right in my theory that to do this I should leave Figure C alone, loosen Figure B, and then adjust Figure A until it pulsates? Thanks, Davey |
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Post by StewRoss on Jun 4, 2007 15:52:04 GMT -5
Hi, You need to rotate the crankshaft anti-clockwise when viewed from the face of the rotor and line up the T mark with you indicator. Take out you plug to make it easier...don't drop anything down the hole! Loosen the big nut first...then screw in the 10mm adjuster nut slowly until the inside positioned slotted adjuster is 'almost flush' then tighten up the big nut while holding the 10mm one still with a spanner. You can use a small screw driver to hold the slotted adjuster stil if it's easier... I then turn over the engine by hand to see that the slotted plunger moves slightly relative to the 10mm adjuster face. Easy...if you run out of adjustment...get ready to change the cam chain. Hope this helps... SR |
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Post by StewRoss on Jun 4, 2007 15:53:32 GMT -5
Ah yes: Big nut = C Adjuster = B Slotted plunger = A SR  |
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Post by StewRoss on Jun 4, 2007 15:55:07 GMT -5
Oh and another thing, don't overtighten the plastic cap over the whole thing whe you re-fit it or you can split the cap and it will leak oil. I do it tightly by hand. SR |
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Post by brokenicarus on Jun 4, 2007 16:03:47 GMT -5
aha! I was wrong! that explains everything. Thanks stew... I hope I didn't ruin my bike. so If I undo the big nut we'll see what happens.
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Post by joneill4 on Jun 5, 2007 20:09:20 GMT -5
ok, so why is the plunger slotted in the first place? do you fine-tune with it?
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Post by StewRoss on Jun 5, 2007 22:19:14 GMT -5
Hi, I think it is done simply so that you can stop it rotating along with the 10mm adjuster as you screw it in. SR |
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Post by trobie on Jun 6, 2007 21:07:25 GMT -5
Or so your can line up the slots and adjust it with a screwdriver! |
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Post by flyereddie on Jun 8, 2007 18:09:20 GMT -5
Hey brokenicarus , this may be a silly question but how did you get the pic in the forum? can you just drag and drop it?
Thanks
Mark
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Post by brokenicarus on Jun 19, 2007 18:30:07 GMT -5
hey mark, there may be a way to drag and drop, I just host the image on another website, I use my college facebook.com account. I would look into Photobucket, or flickr, they're both free websites where you can upload images.
Then you just type in [ img ] whatever the website is where is image is located (the whole thing) [/ img ] (but with no spaces in between the '[')
try that out.
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Post by wizz954 on Jun 25, 2007 7:36:36 GMT -5
Did you manage to adjust the camchain correctly in the end? Stew's advice is pretty sound. I've got a Clymer manual and it suggests adjusting with the engine running, but Stew's advice to turn the engine by hand achieves the same thing.
I never understood the manual or anybody else's instructions until I did it myself for the first time, then it became clear!
To explain the adjuster, the slotted thingy doesn't have any useful function at all! It is the end of the actual tensioner rod and this is spring loaded and turning it has no effect on anything. The only adjustment is made by turning nut B relative to the locknut C, this changes how much pressure is put on the tensioner rod, so winding nut B clockwise puts more tension on the camchain and vice versa. To adjust it correctly, just get nut B flush with Nut C as per Stew's advice with engine at TDC, then turn the engine. Watch A, the end of the tensioner rod as you turn the engine. If it doesn't move/pulsate as you turn the engine, loosen nut B until it does. That is when the tension is correct and you should then lock up nut C, while holding nut B in position. I am presuming the slot in the tensioner rod is there to allow you to use a screwdriver to hold nut B in place while you do up locknut C if you have rounded the nut.
Well, that sounded clear to me as I wrote it, but I'm not sure if it comes across that way! Hope it helps in some way!
Rick
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