silly compression question

Rick

That sounds just about right and I would say the way most of us do it.
I have been meaning to ask how you were going with getting it started but I see you obviously have.

Cheers
Rich

Hi mate,

Push the kickstart over slowly until you feel compression resistance..this depends on how good the rings etc. are but you should feel some resistance to further movement. It may take more than one push through...don't just slam it down...

At that point (...when you feel resistance) you should be near to top dead centre (TDC) on the compression stroke. As I said though on some worn engines that can be harder than usual to detect....

Once on TDC then pull the decompressor in (....err, I know that you said it wasn't connected, but....and by the way why isn't it working??? blinker???)....and push the kickstart down about another 2 " or so...roughly...as I never look to see how far I push it down really.

Then let the kickstart come all the way back up to the top. Put you foot on the kickstart then kick it all the way to the bottom. Shouldn't need to be smashed through; just a consistent force and all the way...

It si best done with no throttle, but here is the catch...and I mean that literally...you may need to apply a little throttle as it starts up to get it going. Once it's running all is OK.

You can push it past TDC on the comp. stroke by doing it carefully without the de-comp lever but it's easier without.

An old road racing and speedway method is to put it into gear and pull it backwards onto compression the other direction...this provided you don't go past compression you place the engine on the right side of the strok for atarting. Then place the bike into neutral and kick it straight through...possibly needing some throttle as it catches to get it running...it's all a matter of feel really and as has been previously stated, it can be slightly different between bikes. Especially if you've changed the carby...

Never be afraid of the bikes kicking you back...unless the timing is wrong that is, as they are very well behaved in that sense...also, once at the bottom of the kick arc the kickstart gear is disconnected from the idler gear and it can't ever hurt you even if it did.

Never play with the kickstart, always mean it when you try to start it...if you've ever owned a big 2 stroke single you'll know what I mean by this...don't 'pussyfoot' the lever and you'll always be fine!

Hope this assists...

SR

Wow, there's a lot of different methods to starting the SR. Some say it's best on the centrestand, with the indicater just beginning to show in the window, etc. On my 79 SR, it starts best with no throttle, on the sidestand when cold. I don't pay attention to the indicator window, just stroke the kickstarter halfway down while holding in the compression release, and then kick hard. 99% of the time it starts on the second kick. If it's hot I do the same with a little bit of throttle and it starts with the first kick most of the time. My bike has a TT500 gravity carb so there's no hot-start button like the original carb. The biggest pain is starting it when it's not hot or cold, like after it's been sitting for half an hour after running. That's when my bike is confused. I've flooded it at a time like this and carry and extra plug just in case I need a dry one.

Yes, the TDC indicator & window's on the head, attached to the end of the cam on the right hand side of the motor. Only SR's came with it - XT's or TT's didn't. So if your bike doesn't have the indicator, you may have an XT or TT motor in it (or else someone's put a blanking plate in for some reason). If that's the case, you're just gonna have to feel for TDC / the compression stroke.
Good luck! And try not to lose patience!

Rgdz
CL

I don't use the decomp or the hot start... just get it on compression and give it a good boot, no throttle. If it doesn't catch first kick or two, then I open the throttle halfway or so and carefully hold it there - no twisting around! And be ready to let off when it catches. I usually start with no stand, but occasionally on the centerstand. The sidestands leans way too much for me to try that.

The 80-81 are spec'd at more of an ignition advance at idle than the 78-79 are. I've wondered if that would make them more prone to kickback?

miker

Well, I finally had a chance to play with my bike on the weekend. New plug, lead. Hadn't fired it for three weeks.
At first things didn't look good - couldn't get a rumble.


Then I realised my housemate had tried to ride my bike and had turned my fuel tap off!!! Thanks for telling me mate.
Fuel tap on, rolled her back in gear to find TDC and kicked her twice.

ROOAARRR. My old girl was firing.

Thanks to all you lads and ladies.

My kickstart indicator doesn't work, but who cares.

Another question though - my motor at idol sonds like an angry generator. Only having my sr250 to compare it with, there seems to be al ot of mecahnical engine noise (no noises that shouldn't be there, just really loud), Is this normal, the motor "out-noiseing" the exhaust significanty at idol??

Anyway, I'm back on the road, so all I need to do is fix the speedo, get the indicators working and I can hit the freeway (was too nervous too on a double dermit points long weekend with radar happy cops everywhere)

"Another question though - my motor at idol sonds like an angry generator. Only having my sr250 to compare it with, there seems to be al ot of mecahnical engine noise (no noises that shouldn't be there, just really loud), Is this normal, the motor "out-noiseing" the exhaust significanty at idol??"

My engine made a lot of noise at idle, as far as a loud ticking. I neglected it for too long and it blew up on me. You could try adjusting your valves and if that doesn't work you need to take the head off of the engine and inspect the valves, cam, rockers, rocker arms, etc.