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Post by flyereddie on Jun 3, 2007 4:55:27 GMT -5
Hey Guys
I was thinking of putting a 17 tooth front sprocket on my otherwise standard SR, Should I also put a new chain and rear sprocket on? my chain seems good not much free play and i cannot see any major wear on the rear sprocket however i read somewhere that the whole set should be changed, what do you think?
Mark
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Post by wotavidone on Jun 3, 2007 6:20:08 GMT -5
I reckon, unless you are lucky, you'll have to buy a chain anyway.
I put a 17 on my bike which came with 15/42 sprockets. I couldn't get enough adjustment to get my old chain on the bigger sprocket.
If you already have a 16 tooth sprocket you may get lucky.
Out of the 3 items, the front sprocket is the cheapest - only $20 here in Pirie. So if you don't change chain and rear as well, and this causes early failure, you've only done the price of a front sprocket if you end up having to change it all.
So bugger it, only change what you have to, is my advice.
Mick
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Post by flyereddie on Jun 4, 2007 6:33:17 GMT -5
thanks mick sounds good to me, a few threads mentioned that you can not use a O ring chain any thoughts on this i think mine is an O ring chain
thanks
Mark
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uk500
Junior Member
Posts: 47
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Post by uk500 on Jun 4, 2007 17:12:33 GMT -5
Hi Mark, I'm answering this because I've just done exactly what you're asking . I was running 16/42 I'm now running 17/42, I wouldn't want to gear any higher, my existing chain and rear sprocket were in very good condition, I didn't change either and my chain fitted fine, I expected accelerated wear/bedding in, I've done about 350 miles and the chain hasn't slackened even slightly, but really clean it/lube it first then keep your eye on it for a while. Regarding the O ring chain, see the thread "18 tooth sprocket mod" I had some in detail advice from SR and others that will explain all,,,,,,,,,cheers, John
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Post by wotavidone on Jun 6, 2007 17:48:51 GMT -5
Oring chain, I reckon you'd have to fit 520 XT sprockets and chain, there isn't a lot of sideways clearance with 530 standard chain. I reckon 530 oring would make contact.
Mick
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Post by frankyb on Jun 6, 2007 21:29:01 GMT -5
Hi guys, hers my thoughts and experiences on sprockets and final drive ratios. Go to a 520 pitch chain and sprockets, overall its a lighter package, so their is less mechanical effort required to turn it all. The 520 pitch gear is oem on xt500 models, so it fits straight on. Most xt 500,s were subject to a lot more ridden abuse than the sr, so you know they will go the distance. In the interests of a more constant chain speed, the bigger the sprocket radius, the easier it is to turn the chain. Changing final drive ratios is always a compromise, in as much as a lower geared bike takes less effort to get to a certain speed, but more effort (rpm) to maintain it, and vice versa, so try to gear your bike for an overall scenario, rather than one specific part of it. One tooth on the front is worth about three on the back, so sometimes its easier to change a back than a front to get around clearance issues. Look at fitting a chain tensioner, as a constant chain tension helps reduce wear as a result of less chain snatch and smoother chain running. Cheers Franky b.
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Post by wizz954 on Jun 8, 2007 7:34:30 GMT -5
Even better, go to aluminium sprockets and save even more weight and you'll get better performance again.
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Post by sirhaxzealot on Jul 7, 2007 20:11:37 GMT -5
Hi,
I recently changed my 16 tooth front sprocket to a 17 on my 1981 SR500. Long story short, I finally figured out the strange intermittent squealing noise I was hearing at highway speed was caused by the chain occasionally creeping towards the transmission case enough to wear a groove in the aluminum. I was able to grind just enough extra out of the transmission case with a grinder to give the chain enough clearance to slop around without rubbing on the case.
Easier to stay with a 16 tooth in my case.
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uk500
Junior Member
Posts: 47
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Post by uk500 on Jul 15, 2007 11:37:49 GMT -5
I reckon your chain must have been very slack or the o ring type, I run a 17 toother using a plain chain no problem at all. Cheers, John
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Post by StewRoss on Jul 16, 2007 2:34:37 GMT -5
Hi, With a 530 O-ring chain it will quite probably rub if you are using a 17 front...a badly worn non-O-ring chain can rub as well due to it's extra allowed movement, radially and laterally. If you go to a 17 on the front, as I usually do, I use a good quality non-O-ring chain such as DID etc. I usually replace these once the wear is excessive and don't have any problems. A 520 is lighter and narrower and 'wastes' less power, but a excessively worn 520 would possibly cause you the same problems. If you don't use an O-ring chain and keep it in good condition then the problem will go away. As an aside, make sure that you use a good condition lock plate to lock the countershaft sprocket nut, as the nut coming undone can result in dire problems. If the nut comes off so does the sprocket and often the sleeve behind comes out as well...letting a large amount of oil deposit on your back tyre...not good. Check the plates engagement by trying to rotate it with your fingers with the nut done up by hand (or very lightly with a spanner). The nut should be loose enough so that it still allows a small amount of play on the plate...the plate should be held captive by the splines if it's on correctly and won't rotate fully. In normal use the plate isn't held onto the splines by much at all...it's enough...but not much... SR  |
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