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Post by milkman on Nov 8, 2006 3:33:48 GMT -5
I thought I would start up a thread to maybe create a guide to lightning your SR in an economical way. A lot of you guys have probably already done it and can offer tips on what is acceptable to grind off, and maybe what you did grind off but wish you left behind etc
Anyway obviously first port of call is in the heavy fenders and wheels. But with the wheels, anyone who has drilled them out I would be interested to hear how much weight you have saved, and if there were any structural issues etc.
The of course we can get into alloy this and that, grind off passenger pegs etc.
Any stories I would be interested to hear
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Post by milkman on Nov 8, 2006 3:37:48 GMT -5
Lightnig as in weight reduction obviously......lightning as in fast we can talk about next time....hahah
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Post by miker on Nov 8, 2006 9:58:08 GMT -5
Looking at every component on my SR, the heaviest thing is me.
miker
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Post by G Man on Nov 8, 2006 10:42:19 GMT -5
Looking at every component on my SR, the heaviest thing is me. miker ;D ;D ;D I hear 'ya! edit: I mean me also!
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Post by hopwheels on Nov 8, 2006 12:27:00 GMT -5
Yep, lightening myself has become a priority as well But on your subject, I would NOT grind off the passenger peg brackets if you're going to add rearsets and don't want to fabricate anything. Omar's has Raask rearsets (and they're available elsewhere I think), that mount easily to the PASSENGER pegs mounts. First thing I did a year ago on my '79 was grind those off, along with some other items. For a non-fabricator like myself, the only rearsets off the shelf (work on rear drum brakes, mount on rider peg mounts) are LSLs. I got mine from VD-Classic, and nearly cost me my first-born. The Raasks are way less expensive and I would have gone that way had I left the passenger mounts. Just personal experience. If you can fab rearsets... chop 'em off (but leave a little bit on the right side to mount a rear exhaust hanger to, if you're going with a low exhaust). Gary Hopwheels
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Post by colinjay on Nov 8, 2006 16:25:05 GMT -5
At 194cm (6' 4") my all up riding weight in just a leather jacket, jeans and open face helmet is over 120kg, and would be a fair bit more if I were to were wear my racing leathers and full face helmet, I think my best weight loss plan would be Jenny Craig or Weight Watchers!
But seriously, after ditching the obvious heavy items like the mudgaurds/fenders etc, I would sugest wire wheels with alloy rims as the next major weight loss gain.
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Post by wotavidone on Nov 8, 2006 17:42:52 GMT -5
I've always thougt I'd ditch the centre stand. I saw a pic a while ago with the centres cut out of the spokes of the alloy wheels, and I thought that there was a real danger of compromising the strength, for not a lot of weight saved. If I was cafe-ing the bike, I reckon I'd do lots simpler wiring somehow. Suppose it wouldn't really save much weight, but it appeals to the minimalist in me. Also, I haven't tried it, but I reckon a bundle of Nickel Metal Hydride AA batteries, about 12 of to give a total of 14.4 volts, would be an lighter alternative to the Lead Acid battery, and a better bet for passing a roadworthy than a capacitor. Gianty steel taillight and bracket - tempted by one of those tiny little offroad jobs you see hanging on the accessories wall at the bike shops. I'm curious as to the reasons for drilling disks, is this to save weight, improve perfromance, or both? Steel mudguards would have to go. Have been pondering how one could fabricate replacements in smoke coloured lexan or something. Of course weight watchers would give me the best improvement, too. However, I have a manual which says the TT500 of 1976 was only 119 kg, so there must be roonm for improvement on the SR. Passenger footpeg brackets - as mentioned a big step that is not all that easy to reverse so needs to be carefully considered, especially if you want something to hang your exhaust pipe off. Now if you could just get a reproduction frame in alloy......
Mick
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Post by milkman on Nov 9, 2006 8:05:11 GMT -5
Thanks so far lads, Good tip regarding the passenger brackets, well noted. As for disks, drilling does both. It lightens them and aids in cooling (more an issue for cars) and when done properly the holes can help act to "shave" the pads more evenly than with a solid disk. Lighter tank on the TT 500 might help, but that wouldn't account for all the diff. Obvioulsy the giant blinkers could be replaced also. I found a like to a fella who has documented a similiar project on Thumperpage: www.thumperpage.com/articles/sr500/sr500.htmlGood read... Keep the ideas coming.....
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Post by fenz on Nov 9, 2006 16:57:58 GMT -5
I ditched the stock blinkers and replaced them with small bullet style ones.Weighed the old ones and new ones nearly 2kg difference.Every little bit helps.
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Post by miker on Nov 10, 2006 11:19:55 GMT -5
Drilled discs also give better wet performance - it gives the steam somewhere to go besides pressurizing your pads.
miker
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