oconnor
New Member
Semper Fi
Posts: 13
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Post by oconnor on Jan 2, 2005 17:39:08 GMT -5
Ok, Have the wheel and suspension off. How the heck do I get that bolt out of the swing arm to remove it? Was hoping to degrease the bike today and paint tomorrow. Unfortunately the shops around here are all closed so can't ask them.
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Post by motomick on Jan 3, 2005 8:55:19 GMT -5
undo one side,(either side),reverse the nut back on with the flat outward,(protect the thread)give it a few "hits"with hardwood block(nylon hammer),to see if it will move/come out?,mine took me 3 days of hard graft,was so seized in,oxy didn't move it,i ended up drilling trunnion bar short till it collasped inside frame,then pressed the remains out,replaced with needle roller bearings,& new trunnion centre bar,with 2 grease nipples on swingarm centre,good luck,hope your is easier than mine was!,  |
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oconnor
New Member
Semper Fi
Posts: 13
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Post by oconnor on Jan 4, 2005 19:17:10 GMT -5
Well gonna start bashing again later tonight. Just tried to degrease the bike to give it a paint over. d**n. Thanks for the info with the bashing. Going to have to build some jig to prop the frame with.
Got a question for you folks down under. Are they still making parts for these things down there? All my rubber gaskets, such as those in the rear sets and all are trashed, and the local dealer said he can't get them and the ones he can get are really expensive. Figure maybe I'll try a place where it seems they made the bike for a while.
Thanks.
O'Connor
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Post by motomick on Jan 8, 2005 8:32:39 GMT -5
G'day Conner,i don't understand rubber gaskets in rearsets?,are you talking about shock eye rubbers?,or seals in them?,either way just bin std setup ,put something better on,we have Ikons (Koni's),but you should be able to access Works Performance shocks? |
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oconnor
New Member
Semper Fi
Posts: 13
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Post by oconnor on Jan 8, 2005 12:54:58 GMT -5
yep, shock eye rubbers. I can get IKON up here too, not sure the way I am going to go with that. But first I need to get new rubber for just about everything.
But hey, who does make better rearsets for this thing?
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Post by motomick on Feb 11, 2005 8:55:43 GMT -5
i'm back ;D,hey O'connor how did you get on with s/arm removal? |
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oconnor
New Member
Semper Fi
Posts: 13
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Post by oconnor on Feb 11, 2005 12:42:04 GMT -5
left it alone for awhile before I broke something. But got it out yesterday. Need a new bolt. Anyways its done. Going to start cutting off all the extra parts (center stand brackets etc) then if I can get ahold of a welder, seam weld everything else. Then paint it, then have the tranny rebuilt and finally reassemble. Going to have a steer stem made to adapt an R6 front end. Also need to have an adapter to put the proper discs on a set of 650 wire wheels. Money money money. Need a real job.
Oh and then I also need to get a new rear drum cover thingy with brake arm. Jack ass I bought it from had welded it together because he stripped the bolt. Hmmm $1 for a bolt, or weld it? Sometimes people are sooo dumb.
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evan
New Member
Posts: 3
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Post by evan on Feb 20, 2005 8:53:53 GMT -5
I had problems with removing the swing arm bolt too.
I managed by removing the left side nut and put aside, then turning the right side nut till it reached the end of the thread, this pulls the bolt out a bit. Then I removed the nut and put big flat washers around the thread and reput the nut on and turning till I again reached the end of the thread. Keep doing this using old front drive cogs as washers and also using a pipe as an extension to the spanner /socket ratchet. The bolt will hopefully slowly come out using the nut as the puller.
I would advise against hitting the end of the bolt as thread damage may occur and the swing arm bits are expensive.
Strip and regrease every year thereafter.
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Post by stomper on Mar 2, 2005 17:17:41 GMT -5
hi i had a seized swinging arm bolt .after a day with a hammer and no joy i got 2 bits of wood and acar jack just below the pivert bolt opened the jack up it give 3 or4 mm flex between s/arm and frame and you can get a hacksaw in and cut through the bolt i know this sounds coarse but it works well when the bolt is welded to the center bush when you unwind the jack the frame flexs back thank stomper
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Post by hopwheels on Oct 3, 2005 9:04:21 GMT -5
I should have read this post before  I bashed mine for about 2 hours with a mini sledge hammer. Had to drive it through with an old/broken hardened steel socket wrench handle. Man was it ugggggly. New bolt needed now What a job! PS: It only took ONE time of bashing my left thumb between the frame and the sledge before I held the makeshift "pin" I was driving with pliers  (instead of my normal two or three!) |
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I bashed mine for about 2 hours with a mini sledge hammer. Had to drive it through with an old/broken hardened steel socket wrench handle. Man was it ugggggly. New bolt needed now 
(instead of my normal two or three!)