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Post by pablosrfivehundred on May 19, 2006 15:10:05 GMT -5
i picked the bike up a week ago. i've had a lot of trouble starting it. i checked the battery. yup. half filled, and very old, i'm getting a new one. and then i checked the exhaust. the gasket is shot. the pipe is moving freely against the head.
so i'm thinking no back pressure and a bad battery is the problem.
any other thoughts?
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Post by StewRoss on May 20, 2006 4:10:15 GMT -5
Hi,
Yes do all that and get good fuel....have you replaced the spark plug? NGK BP7ES, good reliable plug....I have also used the NGK Iridium plugs as well...but one of them failed so no more. Only got one good ride out of it!
SR
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Post by pablosrfivehundred on May 20, 2006 12:29:43 GMT -5
generally speaking what octane should i use. in my 92 fzr600 i use 91 or higher. but this is an older bike, so i'm not sure.  |
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Post by canucksr on May 20, 2006 12:54:29 GMT -5
Use the highest octane available. Does the bike run O.K. once it's running? Dirty carb maybe on top of loose exhaust and fried battery. My SR always start on second kick when cold and first kick when hot. But when its just warm after half an hour from running it can be a pain to re-start. It seems to flood easily and sometimes I have to switch plugs when this happens. I carry a spare plug in the tool-kit.
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Post by pablosrfivehundred on May 20, 2006 17:46:53 GMT -5
it runs fine, after about twenty minutes of trying to kick start it. but i let it sit before flooding it.
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Post by miker on May 22, 2006 13:09:11 GMT -5
The other day riding mine around, I started it a total of 5 times. 4 were first kick and the 5th one was 3 kicks. The 3-kicker was a five minute stop at the bank, the rest were either cold or had been sitting an hour.
My rule is, never touch the throttle! Choke as temp and experience dictate, and give it a good kick without turning the grip until after it catches. I don't use the compression release or hot start button at all.
If mine hasn't started in 4-5 kicks, then I figure I've flooded it and I hold the throttle partway open (just hold it, no moving around) for a few more kicks to clear it out - usually that does the trick.
I think the accelerator pump is responsible for most SR hard starting.
miker
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Post by pablosrfivehundred on May 26, 2006 1:30:36 GMT -5
dang. the battery made a big difference. this weekend i'll be picking up a new exhaust gasket. the guy at the motorcycle shop said there are two different kinds. i'm asuming i only need the crush washer. right?
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Post by rafaelg on May 29, 2006 14:09:27 GMT -5
;)Problems to start your motorbike Hello, if you have problems to light your motorbike, you have to prove several important things: - It checks that you are using the correct sparkplug BP7ES, which is not very closed or much opened the electrode. - Also you can use another warmer candlestick as the BP6ES OR THE BP5ES. - You can try conscripting it is a leakage and clean the coal that has accumulated him during the use. - You can see if sufficient gasoline is coming to him to the carburetor. - You can verify the open sea of the valves of admission and of leakage these must have an open sea of approximately 5 millimeters. - You can try if there is spark in the candle, this one is proved extracting the candle and connected to the cable it puts itself on the head of the engine and kick to him, if it is good the bobbin will give you spark and you will see her in the electrode, but the bobbin of ignition is bad. - You have to see that the bobbin of discharge the one that is connected to the candle is not wetted or that the current is escaping. If, after proving all these options even, it does not start you, then you have to prove the CDI, if the CDI is good, of that time you lumped it because what stays for seeing is the generating plant and is where they are there are the bobbins of starter and those of light. If the bobbins of starter were burned you have option to rewinder this plant with an expert in the topic. If you find the solution you tell me as it you goes. Greetings from Guatemala Rafael Godinez  |
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