Petes2Wheels
Full Member
Out riding the country roads
Posts: 102
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Post by Petes2Wheels on Jan 22, 2024 7:40:41 GMT -5
Hi all,
The old switches are buggered. Half falling apart and broken. Have replaced them with something a little smaller and less complex. They are very basic handlebar flush mounted switches, indicators are 3 wires, got that working with a toggle switch. The kill switch is easy with the toggle switch and 2 wires.
Horn is a question mark. Have one pink wire from the horn going to the old switch. The negative of the horn is going into the harness under the fuel tank. I traced the brown cable and found it was going back to another part of the switch on the right side.the same switch that operates the speedo backlight.
The left hand side light switch is a curve ball. Indicators switch are easy enough. However, the horn had one wire going to the push button. The other wires are going into a slide switch. Just has the markings Lights on it.
This light slide switch has 4 wires green red, green white, yellow white, white going to it. The white is then piggy backed across to the headlight blue wire.
The headlight switch has, yellow, green and blue.
Question is, how do I wire up the headlight?
Would think it is just grab the headlight wires and solder them to the new switches. But the old switch had a extra switch for some reason. Need to short it out or wire something together.
Same with the horn, where do I get the negative from?
Want to test all the lights working with the switches before starting the bike and installing the switches. As the switches will run the cables and wires inside the handlebars.
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Petes2Wheels
Full Member
Out riding the country roads
Posts: 102
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Post by Petes2Wheels on Jan 22, 2024 17:44:56 GMT -5
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Post by gotsron on Jan 23, 2024 12:45:54 GMT -5
I'l take a shot here, and please excuse me if i am not understanding the question or am telling things you're already competent with. I don't think you can count on getting a reliable read on color coding since the wire harness has been modified apparently. If you still have an ignition switch operating, I will usually take my test light probe and find out which of the loose wires has power when the ignition is switched on. If I am functioning well at that time, i sometimes tag the hot wires with a bit of masking tape (which you can write on if needed). I will confess here that I am seldom this organized.
Finding ground (earth) can be a little complex if all you use is a test light, Because the test light requires very little power to light u, sometimes other lights, ignition coils and other electrical devices look like solid grounds when done this way. Clymer says that black wires are the colors most commonly used in standard wiring for SR 500 grounds. And you may have some left-over disconnected wiring for the turn signal canceling device, the neutral indicator, the emergency kill switch and other devices which someone may have done away with
At this point it is good to compare your findings with the original wiring diagram.
I've wired horns to have the power come through the horn to the horn button. In this way, the buttons I used simply grounded (to earth) on the handlebar. I'm not sure how the SR is wired, but it can go either way (Grounding through the switch, or power coming through the switch to the horn (which is then grounded on the second post.
I find it easier to use a multimeter to check how the headlight and turn signal switches operate, so that I can locate which wire connects to power and which leads to connect for high and low beam.
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Petes2Wheels
Full Member
Out riding the country roads
Posts: 102
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Post by Petes2Wheels on Jan 28, 2024 17:12:01 GMT -5
Thanks for the Advice. Got my Multimeter out and traced all the cables. Got them all sorted after several hours
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Post by gotsron on Jan 29, 2024 21:39:00 GMT -5
You're gonna earn this ride , no question!
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Petes2Wheels
Full Member
Out riding the country roads
Posts: 102
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Post by Petes2Wheels on Jan 30, 2024 0:05:58 GMT -5
Sure am, a project and a half.
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Petes2Wheels
Full Member
Out riding the country roads
Posts: 102
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Post by Petes2Wheels on Jan 31, 2024 21:11:24 GMT -5
I'l take a shot here, and please excuse me if i am not understanding the question or am telling things you're already competent with. I don't think you can count on getting a reliable read on color coding since the wire harness has been modified apparently. If you still have an ignition switch operating, I will usually take my test light probe and find out which of the loose wires has power when the ignition is switched on. If I am functioning well at that time, i sometimes tag the hot wires with a bit of masking tape (which you can write on if needed). I will confess here that I am seldom this organized. Finding ground (earth) can be a little complex if all you use is a test light, Because the test light requires very little power to light u, sometimes other lights, ignition coils and other electrical devices look like solid grounds when done this way. Clymer says that black wires are the colors most commonly used in standard wiring for SR 500 grounds. And you may have some left-over disconnected wiring for the turn signal canceling device, the neutral indicator, the emergency kill switch and other devices which someone may have done away with At this point it is good to compare your findings with the original wiring diagram. I've wired horns to have the power come through the horn to the horn button. In this way, the buttons I used simply grounded (to earth) on the handlebar. I'm not sure how the SR is wired, but it can go either way (Grounding through the switch, or power coming through the switch to the horn (which is then grounded on the second post. I find it easier to use a multimeter to check how the headlight and turn signal switches operate, so that I can locate which wire connects to power and which leads to connect for high and low beam.    So my headlights are not working. Horn and indicators are still working. See attached wiring and pictures. The headlight is all connected to the left and right sides of the switch (high beam one side, low beam the other side with off in the middle) with the ground from the headlight going into the harness. I plug my battery on these and can get the light to work. The middle of the switch is going to power. direct to the battery. Nothing will work unless I connect a separate switch to turn all the lights on. (it is the only surviving switch from the original bike) To get that working It has a blue/black wire that needs power and is connected into the red wire of the harness. The brown wire goes into the harness frame. The red/yellow goes into the ignition switch. I also have a spare loose red wire from the ignition. Also the brown wire is split from the harness and I have a loose brown wire as well. Am I missing something here? |
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Petes2Wheels
Full Member
Out riding the country roads
Posts: 102
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Post by Petes2Wheels on Jan 31, 2024 21:21:30 GMT -5
I'l take a shot here, and please excuse me if i am not understanding the question or am telling things you're already competent with. I don't think you can count on getting a reliable read on color coding since the wire harness has been modified apparently. If you still have an ignition switch operating, I will usually take my test light probe and find out which of the loose wires has power when the ignition is switched on. If I am functioning well at that time, i sometimes tag the hot wires with a bit of masking tape (which you can write on if needed). I will confess here that I am seldom this organized. Finding ground (earth) can be a little complex if all you use is a test light, Because the test light requires very little power to light u, sometimes other lights, ignition coils and other electrical devices look like solid grounds when done this way. Clymer says that black wires are the colors most commonly used in standard wiring for SR 500 grounds. And you may have some left-over disconnected wiring for the turn signal canceling device, the neutral indicator, the emergency kill switch and other devices which someone may have done away with At this point it is good to compare your findings with the original wiring diagram. I've wired horns to have the power come through the horn to the horn button. In this way, the buttons I used simply grounded (to earth) on the handlebar. I'm not sure how the SR is wired, but it can go either way (Grounding through the switch, or power coming through the switch to the horn (which is then grounded on the second post. I find it easier to use a multimeter to check how the headlight and turn signal switches operate, so that I can locate which wire connects to power and which leads to connect for high and low beam. This is the switch that is a being a pain. Unless this has power and connected to the ignition nothing lights up, my speedo lights wont work, nothing. This is what I would love to get rid of if possible. In a ideal world, turn the key, speedo lights up, flick the headlight switch and the headlights come on.  |
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Petes2Wheels
Full Member
Out riding the country roads
Posts: 102
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Post by Petes2Wheels on Jan 31, 2024 21:44:28 GMT -5
I'l take a shot here, and please excuse me if i am not understanding the question or am telling things you're already competent with. I don't think you can count on getting a reliable read on color coding since the wire harness has been modified apparently. If you still have an ignition switch operating, I will usually take my test light probe and find out which of the loose wires has power when the ignition is switched on. If I am functioning well at that time, i sometimes tag the hot wires with a bit of masking tape (which you can write on if needed). I will confess here that I am seldom this organized. Finding ground (earth) can be a little complex if all you use is a test light, Because the test light requires very little power to light u, sometimes other lights, ignition coils and other electrical devices look like solid grounds when done this way. Clymer says that black wires are the colors most commonly used in standard wiring for SR 500 grounds. And you may have some left-over disconnected wiring for the turn signal canceling device, the neutral indicator, the emergency kill switch and other devices which someone may have done away with At this point it is good to compare your findings with the original wiring diagram. I've wired horns to have the power come through the horn to the horn button. In this way, the buttons I used simply grounded (to earth) on the handlebar. I'm not sure how the SR is wired, but it can go either way (Grounding through the switch, or power coming through the switch to the horn (which is then grounded on the second post. I find it easier to use a multimeter to check how the headlight and turn signal switches operate, so that I can locate which wire connects to power and which leads to connect for high and low beam. Just a question as well, does this headlight housing look odd as well?  |
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Petes2Wheels
Full Member
Out riding the country roads
Posts: 102
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Post by Petes2Wheels on Feb 1, 2024 1:31:16 GMT -5
All good, found out that the headlight bulb was labelled wrong. The ground was not the ground. Turned out that the white pass wire is really the ground.
Next issue is that light switch. It is the left hand side handlebar switch. All that switch does is turn the lights on.
Should be a way to disable that and wire it into the ignition switch.
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Petes2Wheels
Full Member
Out riding the country roads
Posts: 102
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Post by Petes2Wheels on Feb 1, 2024 20:56:47 GMT -5
Disregard my rants about wiring. Found an Aussie mechanic who had all the wiring diagrams and how it is supposed to be wired. Got them and all fixed now. Thinking of renaming my bike a SR450. It is a mix of both SR models.
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Post by gotsron on Feb 1, 2024 21:11:57 GMT -5
You are solving this pretty well I'd say. The only possibility I see in Clymer is that in the SR wiring diagram, the brown wires are all hot wires straight from the ignition switch . This wire has multiple endings for switches (Headlight, brake light, turn indicators) and for instrument lighting, high beam indicator, neutral lights etc.
SO the power comes through the brown lead to the headlight switch from the ignition switch, and is distributed to the Orange lead to the high beam of the headlight or the Light green lead for the low beam.
Clymer doesn't show any headlight on/off switch at all.
The only red wire to the ignition switch is direct from the battery. It is spliced into the red lead from the Regulator/rectifier to keep the battery charged, Something to check out if it has used a battery eliminator.
You've probably got this part figured out by now the way you are going!
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Petes2Wheels
Full Member
Out riding the country roads
Posts: 102
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Post by Petes2Wheels on Feb 2, 2024 5:23:38 GMT -5
All good, have a old school Yamaha shop manual for the SR500 and yamaha wiring diagrams so was very confident in the wires. Once I have a diagram cam follow it easy. They are simple bikes to work on.
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