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Post by mattb on Sept 8, 2008 0:36:40 GMT -5
Hey Guys. Am looking at putting some cruiser bars on my SR, in the style of this Bonnie below (I'll use the same mirrors too); any way, for one thing that will mean longer brake hose. I know nothing of such matters - length aside, do I need to rattle off certain dimensions for the fittings when I go to get a new universal one at the bike shop, or one from some other bike at the wreckers? Do they differ among bikes? Is it worth getting a braided line assuming I'm going to replace the top half only? Thanks, Matt This guy has them too www.foxcreekleather.com/images/brando.jpg
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Post by davewfc603 on Sept 8, 2008 18:56:02 GMT -5
Oh how I need a Triumph, look at Mikessx.com web site
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sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Sept 14, 2008 2:47:42 GMT -5
Hi Matt! Especially in your case where a long hose is needed I'd recommend a steel braided one. You need banjo fittings on each side, check required bending angles at your OEM device. Inner diameter is 10mm, as the SR hollow studs are M10x1.25 (i.e. 10mm outer diameter, 1.25mm pitch). Shorter hoses aren't much cheaper than longer ones, so instead of replacing just the upper one buy one long to replace them both.
Best regards Sven
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Post by mattb on Oct 12, 2008 7:18:35 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies. Just putting it past you guys in case I've missed something, but I assume this brake hose (see link or eBay number below) will do the job. The FAQs say it take 10mm banjo bolts. I assume that if their pitch is different then I can just use the SR banjos... Does that sound right? Item number: 270282640191 cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270282640191&fromMakeTrack=true
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sven
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Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Oct 12, 2008 10:20:12 GMT -5
Yep, you could fit this hose to your SR, and of course use your old bolts if the ones delivered don't fit, but: 132cm = 52" seem a bit much to me. Also I'm not sure about the bending of the banjos. Are they like OEM?
Regards Sven
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Post by mattb on Oct 13, 2008 6:27:32 GMT -5
Thanks for that Sven; I bought the hose and will let you all know how I go. Certainly it was a very nice price ($30 for braided!). I got a 125cm length from them - they offer a whole range of lengths - which might be a bit long and so slightly untidy, but will at least allow me to play around with different bars. I went on chance regarding the angle - looking at the hose on my bike, it looks like it doesn't need too much of an angle to clear the caliper.
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Post by milkman on Oct 13, 2008 9:04:34 GMT -5
Any issues with a longer hose regarding the pressure drop over the distance to brake effectively? (trying to recall some highschool physics here) I assume the improvement of braided over regular lines take care of it, as you aren't after chopper like length?
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Post by solo2racr on Oct 13, 2008 9:43:35 GMT -5
Any issues with a longer hose regarding the pressure drop over the distance to brake effectively? Nope. Brake fluid doesn't really compress hardly at all. That's why it's good for brakes. To notice any fluid compression, you would need ALOT more brake line.
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sven
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Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Oct 13, 2008 11:28:14 GMT -5
Any issues with a longer hose regarding the pressure drop over the distance to brake effectively? (trying to recall some highschool physics here) In theorie, yep. The hose expands under pressure, and hence its inner volume increases. The longer the hose, the bigger the increase in volume and the more "flex" in the lever. Similar with the brakefluid: it's compressed a very little bit, and the more fluid, the more compression, the more flex. But in practice, it won't make any noticeable difference - it all depends muchmuch more on proper bleeding, a reasonable master:slave ratio and a stiff caliper. Regards Sven
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sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Oct 13, 2008 11:31:56 GMT -5
@ Matt: just in case the hose isn't covered with rubber or plastic: keep it away from the headlight!
Regards Sven
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Post by colinjay on Oct 14, 2008 7:17:43 GMT -5
Most hydraulic fluids (including brake fluid) contains about 8 - 10% disolved air. Under extremely high pressure it is possible to compress this disolved air, which would result in a reduction of force at the disc pads and a bit of a spongey feel at the lever. However, the pressure in a normal brake system generally are not high enough to compress the disolved air.
The most common cause of a spongey feel at the lever, apart from poorly bleed brakes, is old / passed-their-use-by-life rubber brake hoses flexing and expanding as the pressure in the system is increased. Good quality stainless steel braided hoses reduce this swelling/flexing to virtually zero.
Another cause of problems with the "feel", is absorbed water. Most non-silicon brake fluids are hydroscopic and will absorb atmospheric moisture as they age. When you start using your brakes really hard and the disc pads start to heat up, this water in the oil starts to boil and turn into steam (very, very minute amounts), and this steam like all gasses is compressable. The end result is that your brakes lever starts to feel spongey by time you get to the bottom of that really twist down hill run. The solution to this is to change your brake fluid regularly (every 1 to 2 years), and only use brake fluid out of a sealed bottle. Of course if you use good quality silicon brake fluid it should not absorb any moisture, but it still pays to change you brake fluid regularly.
CJ
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