Post by pcnsd on Aug 27, 2008 22:48:38 GMT -5
I have been working on my SR project since March of this year, I am hoping for a little more progress before year end, but I will not complete this year. Fall semester is starting up, my wife and I are writing checks for our #3’s registration and books, the holidays are on the horizon, and the grandkids will need toys, clothes, etc. I will finish next year in the spring/early summer when finances again allow. This is the project to date. I have not documented all, but most of the major changes are here.
I would like to give credit to the ideas of others I have borrowed along the way. My machine and I thank you.
StewRoss, The Black Café Racer posting on the thumperpage years past was the beginning of my belief that I could build a unique performance street bike on a budget and that the SR500 was the platform to use. My alloy electrics plate is also the result of that article.
Solo2Racr, you may recognize my adaption of your alloy skid plate and engine sprocket covers.
Aero, this is my take on your alloy headlight mounts and rear caliper spacer. I can say your posting arrived at just the right moment, as I was ready to proceed at both ends with heavier than necessary components. The last photo shows the other parts I made to finish out the adaption. They are from top to bottom, .150” thick. x .750” alloy washers for the speedo mount, a set of alloy adapters to allow use of the stock headlight mounting with the new mount ears, and an alloy horn mount, using the stock rubber mounting.
Hopwheels, I didn’t know what to do with paint until I saw your bike on craigslist. I almost went with red, but the black café racer convinced me otherwise, I think the skunk stripes fit into a California classic theme. Living so close, I hope you don’t mind my copy. I pray your troubles are now behind you.
The main thrust of my project has been a clean semi-custom post vintage bike, < 300lbs with fuel and 40+ hp. The style is something between stock, dirt track and café. I’d call it Sportster style, but that name is taken, maybe a “Sport about.”
As purchased.
Phase 1.
Phase2 begins, Parts is Parts:
Front wheel:
The front wheel is from a XS650, the rotor from a 99 VTR 1000, the caliper is a 4 piston from an 89 FZR1000 and the master cylinder is a ½” unit from an 81 XJ550. I needed to open up the hub mount (center hole) and move the bolt mount centers on the rotor to fit the XS hub, but the rotor diameter and offset were otherwise correct SR. I made a rotor spacer for caliper/spoke clearance. I also made up alloy bearing spacers from 7068. I still need to fabricate the caliper adapter, but I am confident that all will fit and function. The caliper adapter will be one of my winter projects. Estimated weight savings for the wheel assembly with rotor, about 6 lbs
Rear wheel or death by 10,000 fit ups:
This wheel is based on a 4” Cheney Engineering dirt track hub. I chose a dirt track hub because they are strong, the bolt together design makes them adaptable to a wide range of motorcycles and I am familiar with them from past efforts. A quick change set up will produce a lighter wheel, but for a street bike I think the “carrier” type allows for better part choices and the security of self locking nuts. The rear rotor is from an 89 FZR600, the sprocket is late model YZ, Buchanan SS spokes/nipples, and Excel WM3, 36 hole shouldered rim round out the purchased components. Everything else is fabricated. The hub uses 25mm x 52mm x 15 mm bearings so I fabricated bearing adapters/spacers to fit my 17mm axle, as above, all bearing spacers are from 7068 alloy. From sprocket to rotor, the outer assembly is: Sprocket, Sprocket carrier, Sprocket spacer with extra (third) support bearing, Hub assembly, Rotor spacer, Rotor carrier, Rotor. I am using the stock caliper and master cylinder. I know there will be some who question a hub without a Cush drive. I rode a street legal TT for a year with out a problem and I think an argument can be made that a 300 lbs, 40 hp bike with a spring loaded clutch drive can survive without it. Weight savings for complete wheel with rotor is 9.25 lbs.
Frame:
Most of the frame mods have been covered in other posts. To shorten a long story, I steepened the steering angle 1.25 degree from stock, added a steering damper, drilled some holes, cut off every thing I could and saved 5 .5 lbs from stock on the way. The photos below include the new side stand (old one was too short due to longer shocks) alloy motor mounts and swingarm bolt punched out with a .250” aviation drill. When I procure a TT rear axle bolt, I’ll drill it out and replace the stock SR unit also.
Fenders:
I work a short distance from Airtech Streamlining. I choose their products because they are close, have a large selection of products, worked with me on selection including on-site visits during their lunch hour, have very good quality and the price was reasonable. The front fender is a trimmed up VFF3 and is so light it almost floats away. (6 oz.)
The rear fender is a trimmed up OSSA6. It was the best compromise I could find at 6.75” wide. I had them include an extra layer of glass (no charge) because I was concerned with strength needed to support the taillight. I don’t know the weight, but the alloy taillight assembly is about twice heavier. I have had a problem with license plates cracking and falling off, so this alloy mount plate helps keep it together.
Paint:
The paint scheme is, well, basic. The frame is silver; everything else is black with some white retro striping. I had some vinyl graphics made up for the side panels and tank. What you see is pretty much it. The tank is not complete yet; I buggered the tuning fork logo and will wait the final clear coat until a replacement arrives. The engine will be black with a clean head and polished aluminum covers.
Seat:
I have not located a seat that meets my criteria. 1. Good looks. 2. Affordable. 3. Fits the SR well. So, I have decided to build my own. This is an alloy mount plate that fits to the stock seat mounts. I am currently waiting on some rubber sandwich-mounts for the rear attachments.
Onto this mount I’ll attach extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) and shape to my desire. (A slightly shorter/wider version of the Airtech C1 model.) I will then glass the form using an epoxy resin system. When complete, I’ll dissolve the XPS foam with acetone, then smooth, paint to match and upholster. This will be another winter project for me.
Engine:
I have a box of new top end parts including a new 90mm Wiseco piston and fresh bored cylinder liner from LA sleeve, new rockers, a megacycle 251-30 cam, (came with the bike, the box say’s billet) new valves , a fresh seat cut and R&D valve springs with alloy retainers (came with the bike). I’ll stop here because the head work is covered in another post
The bottom end is waiting in the cradle for some more attention.
I lightened the flywheel 8 oz., I typically cut 16 oz off the TT flywheel, but I needed some meat for the low speed pulsar magnet. I have an extra stock flywheel that I will use to set/check ignition timing.
I have a spare TT crank assembly. I plan to rebuild and install next year. I will save the SR crank for a final dirt track project waiting on the side of the house. The TT cranks are about a pound lighter than the early SR’s. Lastly, I am considering using a bake on dry lube coating on the transmission parts and clutch hubs and I still need a seal kit, gaskets, cam chain, and drive chain, probably a lot of other stuff, money and time to complete.
I Hope you enjoyed the tour.
PC
I would like to give credit to the ideas of others I have borrowed along the way. My machine and I thank you.
StewRoss, The Black Café Racer posting on the thumperpage years past was the beginning of my belief that I could build a unique performance street bike on a budget and that the SR500 was the platform to use. My alloy electrics plate is also the result of that article.
Solo2Racr, you may recognize my adaption of your alloy skid plate and engine sprocket covers.
Aero, this is my take on your alloy headlight mounts and rear caliper spacer. I can say your posting arrived at just the right moment, as I was ready to proceed at both ends with heavier than necessary components. The last photo shows the other parts I made to finish out the adaption. They are from top to bottom, .150” thick. x .750” alloy washers for the speedo mount, a set of alloy adapters to allow use of the stock headlight mounting with the new mount ears, and an alloy horn mount, using the stock rubber mounting.
Hopwheels, I didn’t know what to do with paint until I saw your bike on craigslist. I almost went with red, but the black café racer convinced me otherwise, I think the skunk stripes fit into a California classic theme. Living so close, I hope you don’t mind my copy. I pray your troubles are now behind you.
The main thrust of my project has been a clean semi-custom post vintage bike, < 300lbs with fuel and 40+ hp. The style is something between stock, dirt track and café. I’d call it Sportster style, but that name is taken, maybe a “Sport about.”
As purchased.
Phase 1.
Phase2 begins, Parts is Parts:
Front wheel:
The front wheel is from a XS650, the rotor from a 99 VTR 1000, the caliper is a 4 piston from an 89 FZR1000 and the master cylinder is a ½” unit from an 81 XJ550. I needed to open up the hub mount (center hole) and move the bolt mount centers on the rotor to fit the XS hub, but the rotor diameter and offset were otherwise correct SR. I made a rotor spacer for caliper/spoke clearance. I also made up alloy bearing spacers from 7068. I still need to fabricate the caliper adapter, but I am confident that all will fit and function. The caliper adapter will be one of my winter projects. Estimated weight savings for the wheel assembly with rotor, about 6 lbs
Rear wheel or death by 10,000 fit ups:
This wheel is based on a 4” Cheney Engineering dirt track hub. I chose a dirt track hub because they are strong, the bolt together design makes them adaptable to a wide range of motorcycles and I am familiar with them from past efforts. A quick change set up will produce a lighter wheel, but for a street bike I think the “carrier” type allows for better part choices and the security of self locking nuts. The rear rotor is from an 89 FZR600, the sprocket is late model YZ, Buchanan SS spokes/nipples, and Excel WM3, 36 hole shouldered rim round out the purchased components. Everything else is fabricated. The hub uses 25mm x 52mm x 15 mm bearings so I fabricated bearing adapters/spacers to fit my 17mm axle, as above, all bearing spacers are from 7068 alloy. From sprocket to rotor, the outer assembly is: Sprocket, Sprocket carrier, Sprocket spacer with extra (third) support bearing, Hub assembly, Rotor spacer, Rotor carrier, Rotor. I am using the stock caliper and master cylinder. I know there will be some who question a hub without a Cush drive. I rode a street legal TT for a year with out a problem and I think an argument can be made that a 300 lbs, 40 hp bike with a spring loaded clutch drive can survive without it. Weight savings for complete wheel with rotor is 9.25 lbs.
Frame:
Most of the frame mods have been covered in other posts. To shorten a long story, I steepened the steering angle 1.25 degree from stock, added a steering damper, drilled some holes, cut off every thing I could and saved 5 .5 lbs from stock on the way. The photos below include the new side stand (old one was too short due to longer shocks) alloy motor mounts and swingarm bolt punched out with a .250” aviation drill. When I procure a TT rear axle bolt, I’ll drill it out and replace the stock SR unit also.
Fenders:
I work a short distance from Airtech Streamlining. I choose their products because they are close, have a large selection of products, worked with me on selection including on-site visits during their lunch hour, have very good quality and the price was reasonable. The front fender is a trimmed up VFF3 and is so light it almost floats away. (6 oz.)
The rear fender is a trimmed up OSSA6. It was the best compromise I could find at 6.75” wide. I had them include an extra layer of glass (no charge) because I was concerned with strength needed to support the taillight. I don’t know the weight, but the alloy taillight assembly is about twice heavier. I have had a problem with license plates cracking and falling off, so this alloy mount plate helps keep it together.
Paint:
The paint scheme is, well, basic. The frame is silver; everything else is black with some white retro striping. I had some vinyl graphics made up for the side panels and tank. What you see is pretty much it. The tank is not complete yet; I buggered the tuning fork logo and will wait the final clear coat until a replacement arrives. The engine will be black with a clean head and polished aluminum covers.
Seat:
I have not located a seat that meets my criteria. 1. Good looks. 2. Affordable. 3. Fits the SR well. So, I have decided to build my own. This is an alloy mount plate that fits to the stock seat mounts. I am currently waiting on some rubber sandwich-mounts for the rear attachments.
Onto this mount I’ll attach extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) and shape to my desire. (A slightly shorter/wider version of the Airtech C1 model.) I will then glass the form using an epoxy resin system. When complete, I’ll dissolve the XPS foam with acetone, then smooth, paint to match and upholster. This will be another winter project for me.
Engine:
I have a box of new top end parts including a new 90mm Wiseco piston and fresh bored cylinder liner from LA sleeve, new rockers, a megacycle 251-30 cam, (came with the bike, the box say’s billet) new valves , a fresh seat cut and R&D valve springs with alloy retainers (came with the bike). I’ll stop here because the head work is covered in another post
The bottom end is waiting in the cradle for some more attention.
I lightened the flywheel 8 oz., I typically cut 16 oz off the TT flywheel, but I needed some meat for the low speed pulsar magnet. I have an extra stock flywheel that I will use to set/check ignition timing.
I have a spare TT crank assembly. I plan to rebuild and install next year. I will save the SR crank for a final dirt track project waiting on the side of the house. The TT cranks are about a pound lighter than the early SR’s. Lastly, I am considering using a bake on dry lube coating on the transmission parts and clutch hubs and I still need a seal kit, gaskets, cam chain, and drive chain, probably a lot of other stuff, money and time to complete.
I Hope you enjoyed the tour.
PC
