|
Post by duggram on Aug 21, 2008 9:04:49 GMT -5
I would like to get into club racing and trackdays. I'm looking at an SR500 for doing this. It would also be satisfying to build my own bike. The SR500 seems to be a good fit because of potential good handling and easy to manage power.
I've searched the list and didn't find any comments on this. If you know of any information on racing an SR500 or a list here that I missed, please let me know.
Thanks, Doug
|
|
|
Post by milkman on Aug 22, 2008 0:52:14 GMT -5
A few racers on here but not a specific thread as such because its so varied - depends on what you want, budget etc etc
So all the good infor is in its sections - motor, brakes etc etc.
I guess you need to get an overall idea of what bits and pieces you want and read up there
cafreracercarl, stewross, wizz, solo2racr, curly001, all these guys have experience among others - reading their posts might help
|
|
|
Post by marlon on Aug 22, 2008 9:14:22 GMT -5
It'd also might help if you listed your location?
|
|
|
Post by duggram on Aug 23, 2008 1:54:03 GMT -5
Sure! I'm in Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA. Not sure how this will help. Any racing info, opinions would be appreciated.
This may sound ridiculous but I'm trying to decide between using an SR500 or an R1. I'm sure there's lots of trade offs with both bikes for track days/club racing.
Thanks, doug
|
|
|
Post by solo2racr on Aug 23, 2008 3:10:53 GMT -5
Sure! I'm in Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA. Not sure how this will help. Any racing info, opinions would be appreciated. This may sound ridiculous but I'm trying to decide between using an SR500 or an R1. I'm sure there's lots of trade offs with both bikes for track days/club racing. Thanks, doug Racing/trackday procedures vary with each org. This is the reason for asking where you are located. There are many trackday orgs and Roadracing World magazine will have a listing for the ones in your area. They even do an annual issue just for trackdays. This issue may or may not still be available. I'm sure some other people here will be able to help you with who to hook up with in your area. As to an SR or a R1, start with the SR. You have to learn to walk before you can run. The corner speeds will be very similar with each bike and possibly faster on the SR . When you first go out, I recommend doing at least a few trackdays first. Just to orient yourself with procedure. Once you feel comfortable with that either trackday the R1 to get use to the speed difference or start racing the SR. Both WERA and AHRMA will have vintage classes for the SR. This really is a good place to start racing as the competition isn't quite as fierce as what it would be in a class for the R1. Not to mention, the SR will be cheaper to repair when (not if) you crash. You could rebuild the SR completely for what one side of the fairing lower would cost on the R1. As for setting up the SR for racing, there is plenty of info already here and plenty of people that can can answer specific questions. Personally, I would rather be winning in a vintage class with a SR than finish last and having to replace parts on a R1. Get some experience first and then, if you still want, start racing the R1.
|
|
|
Post by duggram on Aug 23, 2008 10:08:13 GMT -5
Solo, thanks for the reply. I understand about the location issue. Here we have two tracks, Sandia and Deming (~250 miles away). What I'm looking for is insight into whether the SR500 would be good for racing. I don't want to spend a bunch of money prepping a bike that will be underwhelming and impossible to sell.
However, I do appreciate what you have said. The SR is cheap to buy (<1500). Parts are not unreasonable and I suppose tires won't be as big an issue. BTW I went over your list of posts and found some of the parts suppliers you recommend, just so I could get an idea for what it will cost.
My biggest fear is to be the only low HP bike out there and watching everyone else's dust all the time. Of course that depends on who will be out there. At least the SR would make it a lot easier to get involved.
Thanks for all the replies, Doug
|
|
|
Post by solo2racr on Aug 23, 2008 11:10:42 GMT -5
Solo, thanks for the reply. I understand about the location issue. Here we have two tracks, Sandia and Deming (~250 miles away). What I'm looking for is insight into whether the SR500 would be good for racing. I don't want to spend a bunch of money prepping a bike that will be underwhelming and impossible to sell. The SR500 makes a fine roadracer. It's light, narrow, and handles fairly well to begin with. Compared to a R1, the SR will be underwhelming down the straight but, any fool can twist the throttle and go fast down a straight. The thrill comes in when you out brake them going into a corner and pass them on the inside. On smaller, tighter tracks, many times the the small bore bikes beat the big bore bikes in a straight fight. No room to use the HP and the lack of handling causes them to lose out in the corners. Don't worry about selling a SR setup for roadracing. More demand than a dime a dozen, clapped out R1. However, I do appreciate what you have said. The SR is cheap to buy (<1500). Parts are not unreasonable and I suppose tires won't be as big an issue. BTW I went over your list of posts and found some of the parts suppliers you recommend, just so I could get an idea for what it will cost. What you would spend on one rear tire for a R1 will cover the cost for a set for the SR. Plus the SR will not punish them as hard as a R1 so they should last awhile longer as well. Both www.ThumperStuff.com and www.N-RPerformance.com sell parts specifically for the SR. There are many other places as well but most are overseas and will cost more (duty fees) and will take longer to get. My biggest fear is to be the only low HP bike out there and watching everyone else's dust all the time. Of course that depends on who will be out there. At least the SR would make it a lot easier to get involved. Thanks for all the replies, Doug Don't worry about being "the only low HP bike out there and watching everyone else's dust all the time" This is why they have different classes at that races and different groups at trackdays. A larger speed differential is dangerous and the powers that be will not let that happen. Getting involved is the first, biggest step. And the SR will make that easier. Once your out there and see what is happening, then you will have the information you will need to decide what direction you want to go in. Vintage racing the SR is more laid back and fun. Both good for learning the ropes. Racing a R1 is going to be more cut throat to show off who has the biggest bank account.
|
|
|
Post by duggram on Aug 23, 2008 11:40:55 GMT -5
Solo, you seem to understand the situation. In about 2 hours I have an appointment to look at the SR that I will probably buy. Your last post makes good sense.
Of course I will buy most of my parts from suppliers, which makes good sense. But I also want to build my own. For example an aluminum gas tank. The Storz XR750 replica tank on my sportster is hand made aluminum. I think I could do something similar for the SR.
AirTech makes vintage racing fairings and I'll probably pick one up. I can build my own mounts and paint the fairing too.
I have a neighbor that has been a car and motorcycle fabricator >15 years. I know he will be helpful which also means that a frame maybe somewhere in the future.
All of this is more possible with the older, cheaper, lighter and less complex bike. I'm sure it could be fun. If this all happens I'll keep the list posted.
Thanks, Doug
|
|
|
Post by solo2racr on Aug 23, 2008 12:41:09 GMT -5
If it where me, I would save the time and energy of fabricating a aluminum tank and building a frame and look for a TT/ XT 500. Look for ones with aluminum tanks. Not all have them. I'm a bit iffy on the year models that came with them. One other thing with the TT/XT 500 is that their frame runs about 18-20 lbs lighter than a SR frame. This is the ideal setup. SR engine in a TT/XT frame. Use either 17" modern mag wheels or 17"-18" wire spoke wheels. I saved about 20lbs going to 17" mag wheels over the factory cast SR wheels. As a comparison, my street legal, TT framed SR weighs in at 275lbs VS. 365lbs for a stock SR. It would probably come in at about 265lbs in race trim.
Food for thought
|
|
|
Post by duggram on Aug 23, 2008 14:49:55 GMT -5
Where would you buy 17" modern mag wheels? Sorry about the ignorance....
Building a tank or frame would be rewarding, and it would let you play with ideas. Having fun with the SR is the only reason to buy it.
Also, seller won't let me have the bike till Monday. It's going to be tough taking it apart because it is in mint condition. Been sitting since 2001.
|
|
|
Post by solo2racr on Aug 23, 2008 15:42:44 GMT -5
Where would you buy 17" modern mag wheels? Sorry about the ignorance.... I would source them from eBay. Mine are from a late '90's GS500. 3.00x17 front and a 3.50x17 rear. I am also using the whole front end from a '89 Suzuki 750 Katana. Late '80's GSXR750's are the same as far as this application is concerned. Building a tank or frame would be rewarding, and it would let you play with ideas. Having fun with the SR is the only reason to buy it. Very rewarding. Only do it because you want to. You'll never see the time and money back when selling time comes around. If you like fabricating as much or more than riding, go for it. Also, seller won't let me have the bike till Monday. It's going to be tough taking it apart because it is in mint condition. Been sitting since 2001. Resell the parts you won't need. If they are in mint condition, you'll get a good price from them. Since it sounds like you are going to mod past the point of no return, you won't need them anyway. Plus, it will help finance the other things you will need. It's just a SR500. It's not that vintagey.....yet. If it were a Matchless G50 for example, I would say your crazy ;D Here's a pic of my SR. It may give you some ideas
|
|
|
Post by flashback351 on Sept 30, 2008 14:15:44 GMT -5
That's a sweet lookin ride!!!
|
|
|
Post by solo2racr on Sept 30, 2008 15:22:30 GMT -5
Thanks. WAY more fun to ride than a stock SR.
|
|
|
Post by colinjay on Oct 1, 2008 2:54:38 GMT -5
If you are going to race a SR500 (or modified XT/TT500) I would sugest that you have a go at one of the vintage/classic classes. The two main reasons for this being, that a 500 Yamaha can be reasonable competitive in this class of racing (on the right type of track), and secondly, the majority of people who ride in these events/classes arn't "win-at-all-cost, I-would- rather-force-you-off-the-track-than-let-you pass-me" riders. The people involved are also generally more helpful and suportive of new riders than most other classes of racing. Since the eligibility rules for vintage/classic racing vary from one organisation to another, I would also sugest that you contact which ever organisation you wish to ride with, and get a copy of their rules and read them until you really understand what they mean before modifying your bike.. It also helps to talk to other people both officials and other racers to find out what is and isn't allowed as far as mofifications and eligibility requirements as some time the rules as written can be a bit vague. Pictured below is my 1978 SR500E Salt Racer. i150.photobucket.com/albums/s120/coljay/saltracer8x6.jpgThis bike was built mainly to run in DLRA speed trials, but was also constructed to meet the eligibility requirements of Motorcycling Australia's Class 5 Post Classic racing. It is a bit of an extreme example of trying to build a bike to fit into two types of racing, as classic road racing classes normally have fairly strict elegibility restrictions on what modifications you can carry out to you engine and cycle parts, and the DLRA rule are pretty much anything goes as far as performance modifications are concerned, as long as the bike meets far more strict safety requirements. To meet the requirements for both organisations meant making a few compromises, e.g. the chain guard rules are different, with the DLRA rules requiring more extensive guarding of the rear chain, so that what is fitted and it is way more than MA requires. Also the engine is fitted with a 38mm VM Mikuni, as a 39mm Kehin FCR carbie, which would give far more power for the speed trials is not eligible for Post Classic Class 5 racing as it is not "OF THE PERIOD" (it is also far more expensive than I can afford). There are at least another dozen or more of these types of compomise between the requirements of one organisation and those of the other, but I choose to make a bike to fit both classes, so I live with my choices. But, get out there, descide where you want too race, and build up a SR to meet what ever rules you have to follow, and HAVE FUN, because that what racing SR's is all about. CJ
|
|
|
Post by solo2racr on Oct 1, 2008 3:04:02 GMT -5
Since the eligibility rules for vintage/classic racing vary from one organisation to another, I would also sugest that you contact which ever organisation you wish to ride with, and get a copy of their rules and read them until you really understand what they mean before modifying your bike. CJ Absolutely! If your going to build a race bike ( for any class or even a race car) Have the rule book in one hand and a wrench in the other. One of the tricks in reading a rule book for racing is to read what's NOT in it. ;D (pertaining to bike setup)
|
|