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Post by buckraliegh on Aug 9, 2008 12:15:59 GMT -5
Hello all,
Im thinking of putting on some clip ons. Will the stock thottle and brake. fit on a standard /generic 35mm clip on or do I need to buy something longer? Do you have any suggestions on where to find a reasonably priced decent quality set?
Thanks
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Post by solo2racr on Aug 9, 2008 13:27:16 GMT -5
Clipons are clipons. Not much to go wrong there. Vortex seem to be popular and made from aluminum. Steel ones are fine to. Currently I am using Wudo clipons (41mm). Pricey but are 3 way adjustable. Most are just 2 way. I don't know if they make a 35mm clipon.
You can probably get away using the stock cables. Just simply rerouting them will take up the extra length. If anything, you would need some shorter cables.
If your not sure you are going to like clipons, I would get the cheaper steel ones for now. If you end up liking them, then you can always go for the high $$ aluminum ones.
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jeffz
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Posts: 215
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Post by jeffz on Aug 9, 2008 17:46:03 GMT -5
My clip-ons won't allow me to use the stock master cylinder because it hits the tachometer if I mount them above the top triple clamp, and I think it hits the head light bracket if I mount it below the triple clamp. I'm trying to find another master cylinder to remedy the situation. Or maybe I should try different clip-ons.
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Post by StewRoss on Aug 9, 2008 17:54:43 GMT -5
Cip-ons are fine, the SRs fork crown is reasonably high and thus the bars sit up high also...depending on where you place them underneath. Try them up against the bottom of the top triple calmp initially to see what you think..then either leave them there or lower them depending on your preference. For the road I'd go for a drop of no more than about 7 degrees...lower ones look good but can be a "pain in the wrist" over time...fine for racing though where maybe 10 degrees is used for low wind resistance. Steel or alloy, your choice...some alloy ones have replaceable tubes but again your choice. I would steer clear of the clip-ons that weld straight into the sides of the clamp tubes (OK for drum front brakes if you wanted to run them)...to run the front hydraulic brake mastercylinder you want the ones that attach to the front side of the clamp tubes... So not too steep and bars attaching to the front of the clamp...like these ones here on one of mine.  One other thing to consider is the use of another type of lever assembly, as on this one, for the attaching of the de-comp cable. Usually clip-ons with the standard SR lever stand-off place the cable in about the centre of the fork tube. It will still work OK but the cable has a fair bend as it comes out of the stand-off...this one is from an XR650 Honda. There are aftermarket ones of these available as well for less that the Honda price. Not quite as good quality but about 1/3 the price. I have shorter Daytona clutch and de-comp cables on this one as well, and now braided brake hose as well. SR  |
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sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Aug 9, 2008 18:05:25 GMT -5
One other thing to consider is the use of another type of lever Good hint! Suzuki DR models have seperate deco levers that can do the job! Regards Sven |
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jeffz
Full Member
Posts: 215
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Post by jeffz on Aug 9, 2008 21:06:28 GMT -5
Stew, do you have a picture of the throttle side?
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Post by StewRoss on Aug 9, 2008 22:47:11 GMT -5
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Post by marlon on Aug 10, 2008 3:04:22 GMT -5
Stew, how long ago did you get out of the RAAF? That's a reasonably late issue vest!
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Post by StewRoss on Aug 10, 2008 3:12:51 GMT -5
1997...it was mine back then...the cam had been in for a few years then. SR |
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Post by marlon on Aug 10, 2008 4:13:02 GMT -5
Yeah, cams was around 89/90, wasn't it? I remember it came in around the same time as the F88 AUSTEYR. Just didn't see one of those vests till around 99, 2000. I thought you'd got out before then, for some reason.
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Post by bigshingle on Aug 10, 2008 12:41:12 GMT -5
I've been away so long I feel almost like I should reintroduce myself. It's good to be back.
The first improvement I made on the bike was to get rid of the stock bars which took up about a full traffic lane. I replaced them with narrower, lower ones. About a year later I bought clip-ons. Wish I'd saved the money
The clip-ons look cool, but I if I had it to do over I would probably go for Ace bars or something like that, which to my taste look just as good on a street bike and don't cost so much.
The stock headlight kept the clip-ons from going to the top of the forks, and because of the low bars any ride longer that 1/2-hour became painful. (I'm 5'10".) I've never noticed my wrists hurting, but then maybe that's because the pain in my neck is so intense you tend to forget everything else.
I redrilled the headlight mounts, and that allowed the bars to be raised a little, but not enough, so I got a smaller headlight — which I wanted anyway — and that did the trick. I also put on a small, single seat which sits lower. I think that helped the neck problem by shifting some of the pain to the arse (thin seat) and knees (bent more.) Everything's a trade-off, but by spreading the discomfort out evenly over as much of the body as possible I can get more miles between rest stops.
The master cylinder clears fine, but the compression release comes up against the back of the fork before the clutch lever can be set at the angle I would like it.
Obviously everyone with clip-ons doesn't have these problems, so as others have said above, take some time to be sure you buy the right ones. (Mine are Japanese, bought from a Yamaha dealer in Japan, but don't know what brand they are. I've had them a long time, so maybe the newer ones work better.
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Post by solo2racr on Aug 10, 2008 13:17:19 GMT -5
I noticed a few post here referring to the decomp cable clearance being a problem. Myself, I don't use a decomp. What I do when I shut the engine off is to leave it in gear and roll it backwards up against the comp stroke. Then I kick it into neutral. That way, it's ready to go to restart. Of course, if it is cold and requires more than 1 kick, I'll have to chunk it into gear and roll it backwards again. Kinda a pain but it works.
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sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Aug 10, 2008 16:34:10 GMT -5
That's what I do (in order to leave her standing with the valves closed) I must admit I don't have a deco on my racer either (but a kickstarter), and kicking her over the compresion stroke is quite a pain with 11:1 and a motocross cam, so what I want to say is: a decompressor is a very useful device, it makes starting easier, helps drying the combustion chamber when overflooded with gas and can also work as an engine stop switch Regards Sven |
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Post by buckraliegh on Aug 13, 2008 19:50:15 GMT -5
You guys talked me out of it.(for now) I just ordered a set of drag bars.
Thanks for the input.
Chris
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jeffz
Full Member
Posts: 215
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Post by jeffz on Aug 13, 2008 20:55:42 GMT -5
I got mine on the other day. Had to mount to mount them below the top triple clamp. It's significantly lower than the drag bars and will take some getting used to. I'm not totally sure I will leave them on, but I really love the way it looks! I'll post some pics sometime.
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