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Post by therrin on Jul 11, 2008 16:45:57 GMT -5
Hey all,
I just posted up my pics on the pictures section. I'm having some electrical trouble as well.
I've been through 2 voltage regulators now, and they seem to be doing the same thing. I use a Cap for a battery eliminator, but I keep blowing headlights and tail lights because my regulator is putting out roughly 29V instead of 12V. Same thing with both regulators.
This....is pretty frustrating. I've been all through the wiring on it and can't seem to find the problem.
At the moment I'm just a hair's breadth away from saying "screw it", and putting a 12V Zeiner Diode on it like the old BSA's used to have.
Suggestions about the problem, and suggestions about using a Diode?
Thanks!
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Post by sjef on Jul 12, 2008 2:56:35 GMT -5
Hallo Therrin,
is it the original rectifier/regulator which you have?
check the dynamo u-v must read 0,73ohm u-w must read 0,73ohmand v-w 0,80ohm all with a margin of 30% at 20 C
btw is the 29 volt ac or dc?
regards sjef
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Post by therrin on Jul 12, 2008 4:01:48 GMT -5
it's rectified to 29VDC.... but I need 12VDC... what do you think about using the Zeiner Diode? It should shunt everything but the 12VDC that I need to ground.
I've tried using two ORIGINAL rectifier/regulators on it so far. Both in working condition.
At this point, if the electric generator in the motor housing is bad, then it'd be hella expensive for me to replace. I was thinking the Zeiner Diode would be a good solution.
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Post by aero on Jul 12, 2008 4:16:21 GMT -5
I wouldn't use a zener. Its a crap way of controlling the voltage. You will also need a current limiting resistor to stop the zener frying (when the zener breaks down its resistance drops, so you get a high current flow, this needs to be controlled or the diode over heats and burns out), which by the time you have bought this and a zener won't be far off the price of the proper unit. Its a crude nasty system that caused British bikes untold electrical problems. Plus you will need a seperate 3 phase full wave rectifier. Cheaper and better to fix the orginal problem propely.
I would do as sjef suggests and check the resistance of your generator, carefully. Any resistances that are off will indicate a dud unit.
I would check your capacitor. This isn't easy however and you need a specialised tester to do it properly. I used to rebuild aircraft magnetos, and a multimeter does not show up all faults with a capacitor, so you do need a proper cap tester. To get round this find a good battery, fit this and see if things improve. If they do your cap is faulty.
What is the voltage rating of the cap? It needs to be a minimum of 25v and between 6,400uF and 15,000uF. If its 25 and you been getting 29, there's a good chance the cap is now a conductor so you can bin it.
If thats ok you've been unlucky with your choice of voltage regulators. And to be honest if you are getting 29 volts it seems the generator is producing, but the regulator isn't regulating, or the rectifier isn't rectifing!
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Post by joneill4 on Jul 12, 2008 15:15:23 GMT -5
I've got a couple of regulator/rectifiers that rectify, but don't regulate. Chew found one for me on ebay for $25.
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Post by therrin on Jul 13, 2008 16:01:19 GMT -5
Ahhh, thanks for pointing all of that out. I hadn't realized, so I'll look into it.
Talked to Yamaha and found out that a brand new R/R is $240 (yikes!).
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Post by joneill4 on Jul 14, 2008 10:00:51 GMT -5
There are usually several on ebay. Usually in the buy it now section for around $50. What continent are you on?
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