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Post by pvlietstra on Jul 3, 2008 3:35:45 GMT -5
I would be interested to hear how others get their engines so clean. I have normally managed with Jeyes Fluid (contains carbolic acid) but this does not work on ingrained dirt and oil. I don't own ultrasonic or blasting kit and am reluctant to send parts out for cleaning that may come back damaged.
I recently damaged the paintwork on one bike because I did not wash the Jeyes fluid off in good time.
While there is no short cut to elbow grease, any suggestions for the ingrained dirt and oil without going the ultrasonic or blasting route?
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tc
Full Member
Posts: 139
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Post by tc on Jul 3, 2008 5:04:48 GMT -5
Hi I have used the normal home dishwasher ,obviously when she is not home, and I find that it is great ..TC
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Post by milkman on Jul 3, 2008 5:37:52 GMT -5
I've found a good soaking with WD40 or something similar on the ancient grease, then some scraping, then a de-greaser, then a clean then a polish then a.............
Dishwasher sounds best
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Post by jdbrees on Jul 3, 2008 7:15:07 GMT -5
If you're short on time, solvent and or heavy duty cleaner used with appropriate brushes will be most effective. Obviously it also depends on the composition of the foreign matter one wants to remove. The heavy duty cleaners will remove 90%, but the other 10% can be a pain. Time can be your friend if you've got some to spare: after removing most of the grime, let the parts soak in the chosen fluid(s) for a good while. Afterwards, spray them up close with a presser washer (be careful). Sometimes more aggressive chemicals can be helpful. For rusted steel or iron parts, a soak in a pan of heated vinegar will take it off (do it outside!). Aluminum can be treated with a solution of lye (again, outside). These household chemicals can be quite dangerous if used improperly, so use due diligence. Also, they can be quite destructive on the parts being treated. I can tell you for a fact that lye will literally DISOLVE aluminum -as in the part is completely gone! (Don't ask how I know ). Harsh chemicals are a drastic remedy and can dramatically alter the appearance of a part, often for the worse. Removing the chemical residues from treated parts is often more work than the original dirt would justify. Also, when using chemicals it is most often necessary to post-treat with another chemical to neutralize the first treatment. In my experience, some foreign matter will resist all manner of attempts at gentle removal. Parts subject to high temperatures in the presence of contaminants are some of the worst cases. Sometimes mechanical removal is the only remedy. If so, take into account the surface texture of the item to be cleaned. A rough sand cast surface can be cleaned with sand paper, but the cleaned area won't have the same texture any more; media blasting would be more appropriate in that case. Smooth surfaces are the easiest to clean with abrasives but it is usually impossible to obtain a match with the untouched areas - complete surface treatment will give the best results.
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Post by solo2racr on Jul 3, 2008 10:31:29 GMT -5
Great tips. Just what one needs to know to get that new ride that's been sitting outside for 10 years looking good again. Sometimes more aggressive chemicals can be helpful. For rusted steel or iron parts, a soak in a pan of heated vinegar will take it off (do it outside!). I would like to add that naval jelly works well on rusted steel/iron also. Aircraft stripper works well on getting the paint off parts. NOT the stuff you will find at your local hardware store. Try looking for it at autoparts stores that specialize in automotive paint.
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chase
Junior Member
Posts: 35
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Post by chase on Jul 3, 2008 20:23:41 GMT -5
what does everyone use to clean their engines on a regular basis? (i'm not talking rebuild). i use my sr as a daily rider and the amount of grime that builds up in between the cooling fins etc is pretty amazing.
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Post by milkman on Jul 4, 2008 3:51:04 GMT -5
Someone on here once said they had good results with one of those steam jet cleaners between the fins
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Post by jdbrees on Jul 5, 2008 9:30:28 GMT -5
Something I've found that works great for cleaning between cylinder fins is an appropriately sized metal brush from a gun cleaning kit. I think 9mm is about right .
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Post by StewRoss on Jul 5, 2008 16:25:39 GMT -5
Worn out tooth brushes work as well... SR
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pcnsd
Full Member
Posts: 113
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Post by pcnsd on Jul 6, 2008 17:27:05 GMT -5
Aluminum can be treated with a solution of lye Please be careful. Sodium hydroxide (Lye) reacts with aluminum metal to produce hydrogen gas in amounts that could be dangerous to the unwary. A lesser evil might be an Automotive Mag type cleaner containing phosphoric acid or a commercial aluminum brightener containing the same. There are several to choose from. On a related note, I think it is better to clean early and often before the oil and dirt have an opportunity to bake into place. PC
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Post by paulb4 on Jul 7, 2008 4:34:22 GMT -5
After you get the motor clean, spray it with silicon aerosol ($2 can of home brand furniture polish!) give it ten or fifteen ninutes to dissipate then start motor. Do not use on hot motor! Works for me.
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entropy
Junior Member
Moving towards disorder
Posts: 30
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Post by entropy on Jul 9, 2008 11:40:19 GMT -5
Some (most?) aluminum parts have a laquer or polyurethane coating on them to prevent oxidization. Forks come to mind, as well as aluminum cases. Be extra careful when using abrasive cleaners, such as brillo pads or the like, when cleaning these parts because the coating can be scraped off. some harsh chemical detergents or solvents can harm the coating as well. Always try a small area out of view when experimenting with new cleaning techniques.
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Post by miker on Jul 10, 2008 14:04:38 GMT -5
I've heard that soaking in ketchup can "restore" aluminum parts like float bowls. Can't wait for someone to try it! It's a mild acid I suppose. 10% molasses/90% water works great removing rust, but it takes a month to work. "SuperStrip" (from the paint store) removes that lacquer coating on forks/cases/etc. right off. miker
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Post by davewfc603 on Jul 11, 2008 0:33:27 GMT -5
in the old days we'd wet the bike & use TSP tri sodium phosphate (with a little brush) & rinse off, (on the engine only)
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Post by jdbrees on Jul 11, 2008 5:57:29 GMT -5
TSP is great for bare metal, but be careful not to get it on shiny paint - it will take the shine right off!
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