|
|
Post by malakiblunt on Jun 12, 2008 11:58:35 GMT -5
Just been trying to static time my engine but the points are permently earthed so the test light just stay on regardless of weather the points are open or not.
they seem to be eatheing through the balck feed wire wich conects to them
any body no why this is?
the engine runs but misfires very badly at anything much above tick over
|
|
|
|
Post by stevec5000 on Jun 12, 2008 12:52:58 GMT -5
If it runs then it can't be permanently "earthed" as you said. You are probably just measuring it wrong. The points ground the neg. side of the coil primary winding when the other side, the plus side, is connected to the battery through the ign. switch. The coil is only about 3 ohms and that will show up as zero ohms on an old style analog meter and you will get a path to ground through the other things connected to the battery like the headlight and tail light causing a low resistance reading on the ohmmeter. Also, it's possible that your condenser is leaking or partially shorted. Try checking it with the condenser disconnected or check it on your meter if it has a capacitance scale. If you don't have a DVM then go and pick one up. They are currently on sale here for $2.99 at Harbor Freight.
|
|
|
|
Post by malakiblunt on Jun 12, 2008 14:15:03 GMT -5
hi yes i disconected the condenser, made no difference, i conected up the test lamp as per the haynes manual, i dont have a battery conected up, as im waiting on a capcitor, will that make a difference?
|
|
|
|
Post by malakiblunt on Jun 12, 2008 14:48:19 GMT -5
well ive unpluged the power lead, so the test lamp now goes on and off but im haveing to turn the back plate a ridculosly long way to get the timeing correct wich makes me think i must of done something eles wrong some were, though as ive saidf the engine does start and idle, so it cant be that wrong?
:-[lol im such a dumb arse, was timeing it on the bulb lighting not extingishing!!
im realy not safe with spanners!
|
|
|
|
Post by stevec5000 on Jun 12, 2008 18:03:06 GMT -5
>i dont have a battery conected up, as im waiting on a capcitor, will that make a difference?
The battery isn't necessary on the SR500 but I don't know about a points model since I don't have a manual for that.
|
|
|
|
Post by wotavidone on Jun 12, 2008 20:57:25 GMT -5
You must have an XT motor?
The circuit for a points XT looks really funny, I discussed with my auto mechanic mate the other day, its weird because the points are wired in parallel with the coil instead of in series.
So the points, as you have discovered, are earthed both by the ignition coil and the coil under the flywheel.
Simply unplug the black wire and static timing is easy. I have not done it using the the indicator that hides under the black plastic plug though. I used the mark on the flywheel.
First thing I did was get the gap right. Can't remember the number now, but I got the points on the highest part of the cam to set the gap, then lined up the flywheel timing mark on the compression stroke.
I noted which way the cam rotated, then turned the points plate in the opposite direction until the points just opened as indicated by my multimeter.
When I checked with a timing light it was spoton.
Mick
|
|
|
|
Post by StewRoss on Jun 13, 2008 3:06:47 GMT -5
You will probably find that the new condenser will make all the difference...if it has a weak spark that doesn't change the condenser is usually the culprit. Here's the XT motor in the DCM (see below)...I use a piece of cigarette paper or very thin foil to sense the points opening time on mine. Works very well. I also note that you can get an electronic sensor for the bike to replace the points as well...might appeal to you...  SR  |
|
