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Post by jdbrees on Jun 9, 2008 21:12:07 GMT -5
What's involved adapting the three spoke GS500 wheels to the SR500?
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Post by solo2racr on Jun 9, 2008 21:42:52 GMT -5
On the front, I used the whole front end off a 1989 Suzuki GSX750F Katana. The front wheel from that is the same as the GS500. The Suzuki front wheel is about 10lbs lighter than the factory cast wheel. Also, the steering stem is a bit larger around but is just so happens that the outer bearing race is the same diameter as a SR. The stem is also just a little longer. About 3/16". After I tightened the steering stem bearings, I added a small aluminum spacer under the top clamp and then tightened the top bolt. The top clamp doesn't offer anything to mount conventional handlebars. You will either need to use the stock Suzuki bars or go to clipons (41mm). I believe that the stock SR handlebar mounts could be adapted to work on the top clamp but I'm not sure.
The rear wheel started as a Suzuki 750 Katana wheel as well. It didn't take long to see the distance from the wheel center to the rear sprocket was to far. Makes sense since the 750 uses a larger rear tire. The only difference between the 750 rear wheel and the GS500 rear wheel is the sprocket carrier. With the GS500 carrier on the wheel, the alignment is much closer. The rear sprocket still needs to be set in some (about 1/4" if I remember right) and the aluminum that extends past the bearing to hold the seal needs to be cut away also. Just replace the bearing with a sealed bearing and it should be fine. Right off I don't know if the axle diameters are the same as an SR because I also used the swingarm from the 750 Katana (HEAVILY MODIFIED) You will also have to machine your own axle spacers. I turned mine from 1-1/2" diameter 6061 aluminum rod. The rear wheel is about 3 lbs lighter than the stock mag wheel. One of the added benefits to doing this is that there are much smaller rear sprocket available for the GS500 and will work with a 520 chain.
Good luck if you want to pursue this swap as it isn't all that easy. There really was no particular reason for me to use the Suzuki wheels and other parts other than I already had them. There are probably other wheels from Yamaha that would mount much easier.
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Post by joneill4 on Jun 11, 2008 18:51:27 GMT -5
I think what brees is trying to say is "uh...ok...uh thanks and all, but...uh...nevermind"
Maybe I'm totally wrong, but ain't nothin easy bout that
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Post by jdbrees on Jun 12, 2008 16:52:14 GMT -5
I'm guessing that like Stew Ross, Solo2racr has a mill and lathe and welder and some experience using them. Oh yeah - time as well!
Thanks for the reply to the question, I'd agree with you that it's not all that easy.
Schucking 20 pounds would sure be nice though! (the bike too) <grin>.
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Post by joneill4 on Jun 12, 2008 18:28:30 GMT -5
To be honest, I didn't put Solo's name with that bike when I replied. I thought we were talking about a wheel swap, but that is something a little different. That bike just may be worth the trouble.
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Post by solo2racr on Jun 12, 2008 21:55:14 GMT -5
 You can tell in the pic of my SR that it wasn't just a simple wheel swap. Was it worth it, YES. But, it's not for everyone to try to do. Yes, a mill, lathe, & welder are a must. |
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Post by davedunsboro on Jun 13, 2008 7:07:29 GMT -5
That is an awesome effort ! I really like the tail on it ,wheels ,swingarm & the standard tank suits it perfectly but(I hope you don't mind me saying)& its only my opinion ,that pipe needs to be put into the spares department & you need to fit like a XT type system on it so it comes out of the head & goes past the barrel & up just under the tail !(in chrome or staino) . Now that would do it for me 100% (I'm sorry but that pipe belongs on one of those SRs with the ape hangers!)I know the exhausts are difficult to get right(I've got 3 different ones hanging in the shed at the moment) coz I cant quite get it how I want & it starts to get expensive with every failure !Cheers Dave.
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Post by solo2racr on Jun 13, 2008 10:15:48 GMT -5
No problem here with constructive criticism. And, I know what you mean. I'm not that wild about it either. That particular photo shows that gap between the pipe and the frame at it's widest. Different angles would have hid it better but that's not the point. It's still there. I considered going with an up pipe but because the electrics are under the tail of the seat, I figured the heat wouldn't be a good thing right there. I think that if I got rid of the gap (for the most part) between the pipe and the frame, it would clean up the lines considerably. For those who want to try building their own exhaust, here are two places that carry pre bent tubing. secure.chassisshop.com/Default.aspxwww.burnsstainless.com/And for those that are even more daring and want to try it from scratch, you'll need a tubing bender. These people make a great (I have one) bender that wil not deform the tubing like many cheap benders will. www.pro-tools.com/ |
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