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Post by malakiblunt on May 25, 2008 8:42:06 GMT -5
Anyone know how to shorten XT forks?
I want to keep the drum brake front , but need much shorter forks at least down to stock SR length, maybee a little shorter.
i have a lathe, and i think i can buy a Tap to re thread for the plugs for around £20.so if its possible to do it seems like the cheapest solution.
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Post by solo2racr on May 25, 2008 10:35:46 GMT -5
An another solution is to shorten the damper rods. This also has the advantage of more overlap between the fork tube and the slider (lower). You can cut the damper rod at any point but, I cut mine right below the head and removed X amount below that. The reason I cut mine at that point is so there is less of a worry that the rod isn't perfectly aligned. Re-weld the head back on and assemble like normal. Remember to measure your holes in the damper rod so you can re-drill them lower on the rod. You can also use the stock springs. You may feel that these are to light for the available travel now so you can shorten them to increase the stiffness of them as needed. Custom length spring spacers can be made from PVC tube (provided the correct dia can be found).
With a lathe, you could also machine new damper rods but, that's alot more work.
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pcnsd
Full Member
Posts: 113
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Post by pcnsd on May 25, 2008 10:51:55 GMT -5
Depending on what you are trying to achieve, I have used two methods to reduce either overall length (travel unchanged) or travel. Both require a lathe and some common sense at minimum before proceeding. I have never modified the SR or XT forks, so I do not know if this is directly applicable. You will need to review and decide for yourself if it is within range of your skill and equipment.
1. Reducing overall length (travel unchanged.)
This requires cutting off and re-machining to match original, the bottoms of the sliders tubes (chrome part). Do not cut the tops, they will rust once the chrome is gone and it does not matter how tight the cap fit is. I learned this the hard way.
2. Reducing travel.
This requires shortening the damping rods. You will need to relocate the orifices for the compression circuit relative to their original position from the bottom and re-tap the mounting hole in the bottom. If the damping rods have a machined in place bottoming cone, you will need to make a new one that slips over the cut off. Remember to allow for whatever wall thickness (.100") the new cone will add to the bottom. One last note, damping rods are not just a fixed diameter, they typically vary to allow changes to the damping curve based on travel position. When you hack off an inch or two you will change how the forks damp in the last bit of travel (softer) before the bottoming cone comes into play.
Hope this helps.
PC
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sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
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Post by sven on May 25, 2008 10:59:19 GMT -5
Easiest solution:
remove damper and add a tube below
the damper head (additional to "rebound-stop-spring")
Length of tube=intended reduction of fork lenght,
inner/outer diam. similar to those of the spring.
Regards
Sven
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Post by malakiblunt on May 25, 2008 11:51:21 GMT -5
Thanks Guys,
well it would seem prudent to start with the spacers before i go cutting bits off(lol though thats why they invented welders , so you can add a bit back after you cutt it to short) got my tape messure out and i want to shorten them by at least 5"
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