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Post by christoph on May 23, 2008 9:41:48 GMT -5
I have basically had this problem for the past three years. It has caused me to rebuild the engine three times and I am at my ropes end. Here's a description of the components I have replaced/repaired/checked. Stator was rewound by a fellow in Austin who rewinds these things all the time . All the tolerances are exactly what the manual describes. I have tried various CDI's including one that was definitely working on my friends Sr (as soon as I put it on mine it would not advance). I have replaced the battery with a 16vdc 47,000mfd Capacitor which was new and works fine. The bike starts first kick but when I rev it past the 2000rpm line it does not advance I think (and it is hard to tell because of the vibration) that the advance is actually retarding slightly. I had this problem with an aftermarket CDI I put on the bike ( when I revved it past 2000rpms it would actually erratically retard which I think is to blame for the engine overheating and failing the second time I had to rebuild it). I have replaced the Regulator/rectifier with a Yamaha OEM brand new unit. I tried taking the Magneto off my friends bike just to eliminate that possibility. The ignition coil has been check and indicates proper resistance on the primary and secondary windings. If anyone has any ideas as to why I am having this problem you would end a long struggle with a beautifully rebuilt Sr engine that has been constantly self destructing.
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Post by stevec5000 on May 23, 2008 10:06:33 GMT -5
The battery/capacitor and Regulator/rectifier have nothing to do with the ignition so you can eliminate them. That just leaves the magneto and CDI. If you have substituted a good CDI and magneto that would seem to eliminate those as well unless you did them one piece at a time and both of them are bad. Have you tried both parts at the same time? Also, what about the flywheel? Maybe some of the magnets are bad or missing? Also, this sounds weird but is you timing light working properly? Some units let you advance or retard the light so I would check it on another engine to make sure it's indicating properly. Anyway, if you have access to a friend's bike for parts it shouldn't be hard to find the problems since there are only 3 parts to deal with.
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Post by christoph on May 23, 2008 13:42:54 GMT -5
The stator has been rwound by Custom rewind in Alabama. all of the windings give the exact resistance measurements as outlined in the book. SInce Gary is using modern wire (which is heat resistant to a higher temp) and a higher temp Epoxy to seal the wiring unit in, my Stator should be better than stock. I did try the Magnet flywheel off my friends bike (which we tested with the same Timing light) and on my bike it did not cause the timing to advance. The only thing I can think of now is that the two triggers are somehow not working. Do you know what the proper resistance for those windings should be?
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Post by stevec5000 on May 23, 2008 13:58:04 GMT -5
The Clymer manual lists the resistance of the high speed pulsar coil as 16 ohms and the low speed pulsar coil as 87 ohms, the high speed charge coil as 334 and the low speed charge coil as 329. The resistances aren't the only thing to consider though since you also have the inductances to deal with and it doesn't say what that should be in the manual. However since the entire ignition system consists of just the magneto, CDI, rotor and ign. coil and wiring between them, if you change all those it would have to fix the problem.
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Post by aero on May 23, 2008 14:35:40 GMT -5
Inductance is a function of frequency and number of turns (amonst other things).
Since you can not check the number of turns easily and frequency is determined by engine speed your only option is to take a 'static' resistance measurement of the coil's winding to see if that figure matches what it should be if its in good condition.
Meassuring coil resistance is a bit hit and miss, but gives a good general guide.
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Post by stevec5000 on May 23, 2008 17:53:47 GMT -5
I could check the inductance of mine and let him know what it is for each coil (if it ever stops raining outside) but I'm not sure that would be any help since he'd also need a way to measure it and if he can borrow a good one to try there's no point.
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Post by solo2racr on May 23, 2008 18:30:22 GMT -5
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cliff
Junior Member
Posts: 42
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Post by cliff on Oct 6, 2008 10:13:34 GMT -5
I am modifying my original post on this since I discovered I had a mismatched stator and flywheel and feel maybe the same is happening to you. My advance was going to 90 degrees as opposed to the 25 degrees. I did hose my piston rings with this configuration. Dont ride it anymore until you figure it out. I did get a new CDI but it did not work fix it. My matched '81 stator and flywheel have the same inked numbers 1411 on them. What is on my bike now is a '78 flywheel stator. I plan on taking pictures of the '78 and '81 to see if i can discover differences. See the post and comments on this thread. sr500forum.proboards38.com/index.cgi?board=Electrical&action=display&thread=2505Cliff
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