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Post by Cameron on Feb 8, 2007 16:25:12 GMT -5
I just ordered Mini-Stock Signals for my SR and was warned that I will need to put in resistors/remove the canceling unit. Is this true? and what kind of resistors will I need to get?
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Post by wotavidone on Feb 8, 2007 18:41:18 GMT -5
This is depends on what current draw you new you beaut indicators will have.
If they do not draw enough current to make the can operate, you will have to put some resistors in parallel with the indicators. Happy to assist with calcualtions, but you will need to wait until you see the actual specs on the units.
Mick
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Post by Cameron on Feb 12, 2007 19:33:41 GMT -5
Just got them in from thumper stuff. The new signals are 12v 32watt.
This arm signal non-sense gets tiring...
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Post by wotavidone on Feb 12, 2007 21:29:00 GMT -5
I believe the stock ones are 23 watt. This means that your new ones will draw approximately 50% more current than your old ones. Which might be too much for your flasher can.
Probably make them flash quicker - might burn something out. Have you tried them yet?
You may need a SERIES resistor in each lead to limit the current draw.
At 12V, this means you may need to reduce the current flow from 2.7 amps to 1.9 amps in each lead.
I suggest you find your self some 10 watt resistors with resistance as close as you can get to 1.8 ohms, and solder a resistor in the lead to each indicator. This should not cost more than a couple of dollars.
Hope you are succesful. This may not fix your problem but if it doesn't it should do no harm either. Just remember, each resistor has a certain amount of current running through it which may generate heat, so make sure they can't touch anything that can be damaged by heat.
Regards,
Mick
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Post by wotavidone on Feb 12, 2007 21:30:10 GMT -5
P.S. this may not work out anyway, since you may then find the indicators are too dim. The other option is to see if you can change the bulbs to 23 watts.
Mick
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Post by Cameron on Mar 7, 2007 19:22:14 GMT -5
So I found bulbs that match the stock watts, wired everything up, and tested it out. They light up fine, they just don't blink... this isn't nearly as big of a problem as not lighting up but I would still like to fix it.
I was told my self canceling unit might have something to do with it... but I wanted to check with the forum before hacking stuff up.
Also, it isn't the battery eliminator that is causing the problems. I tested all of the wiring hooked up to a battery.
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Post by wotavidone on Mar 7, 2007 19:40:27 GMT -5
Hmm. Light up but don't blink.
If the flasher can is good, this is generally a sign of not flowing enough current
Check battery condition is good.
Easy way to ensure sufficient system voltage - hook up everything as normal then connect a battery charger.
Not sure of the steps involved in removing the self cancelling unit. Just unplugging the self cancellor is easy, but not sure what effect on the operation that has.
I'll consult my wiring diagram.
Mick
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Post by Cameron on Mar 9, 2007 18:28:38 GMT -5
I'm going to check the wattage on the bulbs again. I'm thinking the indicator packaging was off. I'l check it out and post my findings.
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Post by Cameron on Jul 17, 2008 23:46:18 GMT -5
So two years later I finally got around to it.
The bulbs in the after market lights are 12v 23w. I had no resistors in the wiring and the lights would light up but not blink. THEN three of the four bulbs burnt out/blew up.
I'm going to order new bulbs and I bought 4 10w 1ohm resistors.
What wattage of bulbs should I buy? and will I need to still wire in the resistors?
Thanks,
Cameron
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