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Post by solo2racr on Oct 19, 2008 12:32:16 GMT -5
A comp. reading will not reflect the condition of the oil ring. Except for maybe inflating the PSI. Oil in the top end will help rings to seal and give a higher reading.
I'm still thinking that it could also be a broke oil ring. It couldn't be anything pressurized as the only line that goes to the top end is the external line to the intake rocker.
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sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Oct 19, 2008 13:57:23 GMT -5
Drain the oil and see if it just happens to have double the right amount in it,, it has been done many times before, owner checks dipstick without running engine first/ tops up untill it reads , they will still go and usually blow the front sprocket oil seal out the first time you give it a big rev..... Jep. And all this wetsumping will be prevented by a properly working check valve in the clutch-cover. Regards Sven |
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sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Oct 19, 2008 14:03:40 GMT -5
... has anyone have a valve oil seal go & oil runs back into the engine. I'm not sure if I got you right, but I run my SR race engine with no valveguide-seals at all, and that's no problem. No smoking, very low oil consumption. Regards Sven |
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Post by davewfc603 on Oct 19, 2008 18:19:46 GMT -5
Thanks for the help so far guys. I took the engine out. The valveguide seals look good. The oily/tar looks like diarhea (have grandchildren) in the exhaust port. I'm kind of guessing the oil ring but the check valve will also be checked out, Thanks so far Dave
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Post by davewfc603 on Oct 19, 2008 18:44:01 GMT -5
So with all due sympathy one of the "Kids" sent this to me again. It's not me ......
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lurch
Full Member
Posts: 217
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Post by lurch on Oct 20, 2008 1:29:40 GMT -5
Hi I think thats Areo ?? identify urself man  LURCH |
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Post by davewfc603 on Oct 20, 2008 9:02:26 GMT -5
Goodmorning, it's not a broken oil ring, but there is some scoring on the piston & sleeve. Now I'll look for the "check valve" as mentioned by Sven. I'm not really sure what that actually is, once again any help is appreciated, Dave
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sven
Full Member
Posts: 166
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Post by sven on Oct 20, 2008 13:03:35 GMT -5
The check valve is a spring preloaded ball with a rubber seat,
and it's located in the inner side of the clutch cover, close to
the oilfilter.
With the engine standing still it prevents the oil from the tank
(=frame) draining through feed-pump and bigend bearing into the
crankcase.
The problem with the valve is not wear or so, but the fact that it
can be to deep in it's housing. You'll just have to pull the rubber
part out a bit.
Regards
Sven
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Post by davewfc603 on Oct 20, 2008 16:52:24 GMT -5
Thanks Sven, I'm learning
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Post by davewfc603 on Oct 20, 2008 19:25:02 GMT -5
Ok, I'm at the point of opions again. The initial problem was a sudden change of the engine smoking & stalling. It' an restore that I had been running at about 15 min intervals to "reseat" things. The exhaust valve upon taking the engine apart is an oily tar mess, but the seats are ok. Presumably the oil build up caused an uneven seating of the valve. The valve guide looks good, the back of the valve that does not get retracted is packed with tar. Upon taking the piston out, the pistion is scored some & the cylinder very much less so but has some scuff marks. I've checked the check valve (does this apparently take excess oil from the oil filter when ther is too much volume?) So I'm at the measure the piston, relap the valves function. What else at this point should I inspect; the oil pump (the mythological sump issue), any particular oil seals. It's near winter here so this is the first of three engines for my winter projects and everyone here is my mentor. The remaining question is the excess oil that created this. Maybe (an age related issue) I did not drain the down tube one my 1st oil changes, but that would have taken two weeks of running the engine to cause this problem, thanks again for your inputs, Dave
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