tosh
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Posts: 10
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Post by tosh on Sept 22, 2008 2:38:22 GMT -5
Can anyone tell me what the numbers on particular bolts represent? Is it in reference to a torque setting key somewhere out there? If not - what is everyone using as a guide to tighten their nuts  (if it hasn't been mentioned in their Haynes workshop manual) - I've been told "screw em on tight then half a turn again". Please enlighten me... as my bike is neatly all over the garage. thanks. T |
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Post by chew652 on Sept 22, 2008 7:37:42 GMT -5
The numbers stamped on head bolts refer to there grade(tensile strength). The higher the number the stronger the bolt but they do not give an indication of torque value.The shank diameters which are in millimeters in the case of the SR are what determines what torque to use if there is not a specific value indicated in the manual. Bolts threaded into aluminum often have a lower torque value assigned so check the manual for specfics.
"screw em on tight then half a turn again". This can lead to tears if applied in the wrong place.
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tosh
New Member
Posts: 10
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Post by tosh on Sept 22, 2008 23:22:32 GMT -5
Thanks Chew..
You wouldn't happen to know where I could get some sort of idea of force I should apply depending on shank diameter?
Cheers.
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Post by Just Plain Bill on Sept 22, 2008 23:46:50 GMT -5
Tosh, here's a link to a site that provides Kohler (small engines manufacturer) tables with recommended torque values (in aluminum) for metric and English bolts: www.yetmans.mb.ca/kohler/page3/page3.htmlYou should find everything you need there. Bill |
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Post by wotavidone on Sept 23, 2008 0:00:26 GMT -5
Well there ya go. I did wonder which way it went. So when I replaced the grade 6 and 7 bolts that hold the fork tubes on my XT with grade 8 bolts, I improved the strength?
Mick
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Post by chew652 on Sept 23, 2008 6:24:41 GMT -5
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Post by joneill4 on Sept 24, 2008 13:18:42 GMT -5
Good find Chew. I could have used that last night. I torqued my drive sprocket nut to 80ft lbs, instead of the recommended 50.5 ft lbs. I guess it won't fall off again.
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Post by solo2racr on Sept 24, 2008 14:35:46 GMT -5
I would back that off to were it's suppose to be. If left that tight, the vibration may strip out the threads. I'm sure they are close to shearing off at 80 ft/lb. I have all of about 15-20 ft/lb on mine because the threads are just about shot. I just made sure the locking tab was tight against the nut. I haven't had it come loose in over 3 years.
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Post by joneill4 on Sept 24, 2008 16:30:38 GMT -5
Hey Solo, I will loosen it up some, but keep an eye on yours. Mine made it two years and went away.
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Post by joneill4 on Sept 24, 2008 16:33:03 GMT -5
On second thought, aren't you the guy that did away with the sprocket cover?
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Post by solo2racr on Sept 24, 2008 18:20:11 GMT -5
This is what I am running  |
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tosh
New Member
Posts: 10
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Post by tosh on Sept 25, 2008 0:33:53 GMT -5
That looks great - Fully fabricated Im guessing.
Those links are just what I was after - except mine is an 83 - shouldn't be much difference - right guys?
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Post by solo2racr on Sept 25, 2008 0:51:42 GMT -5
That looks great - Fully fabricated Im guessing. Those links are just what I was after - except mine is an 83 - shouldn't be much difference - right guys? Thanks. The sprocket cover can be had from www.n-rperformance.com/Your '83 should be the same. The only difference should be from disc to drum rear brake. |
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Post by colinjay on Sept 29, 2008 2:48:08 GMT -5
If anyone is after a good book to read on the subject of bolts etc, I recommend "Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Hanbook". The copy I have is from 1990, so I don't know if it is still available, but I has everything the bike (car) building/modifying tragic will every want too know about nuts, bolts and other non-welding means of joining things together.
The author, who was/is a respected open wheel race car constructor in the US, has has also written a series of quite good race car preperation / vehicle engineering books, with title such as "Prepare to Win" and "Tune to Win" etc, which I would also recommend to the engineering tragics out there who want understand more on what is and isn't good engineering practice and what will and won't break.
CJ
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Post by solo2racr on Sept 29, 2008 2:57:42 GMT -5
Agreed. I have three of his books. Prepare to Win, Engineer to Win, & Tune to Win. All 3 are very good and a good bit applies not only to cars but all engine driven wheeled vehicles.
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(if it hasn't been mentioned in their Haynes workshop manual) - I've been told "screw em on tight then half a turn again". 
