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Post by solo2racr on Oct 2, 2008 18:23:21 GMT -5
When I start mine, I stick it gear and roll it back against the comp stroke. Same thing as getting the indicator in the window. I am running a 38mm VM Mikuni so no accelerator pump. This is cold starting BTW. 1st kick with the enrichen (choke) lever on. Bring the indicator back into the window and lift the enrichment lever off. It will start every time on the next kick (2nd) or no later than the one after that (3rd). When hot, I skip the 1st kick procedures and go to kick 2 and 3. Same thing applies. It will start on one or the other every time. No throttle, plug isn't the best (sooty from being rich) and the original stator. On big singles like ours, it isn't brute strength in the kick that gets it going, it's the right technique. I only half ass my kicks. I could almost just sit on the seat and kick it from there if my right leg muscles were in better shape. I pulled a groin muscle 2 years ago and still limp around from time to time so I use my weight. 180lbs. And not even all of that.
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Post by soonerfan on Oct 2, 2008 19:23:05 GMT -5
Jeez. Wish mine was so easy. I was told that the decompression lever isn't needed in the starting process, so I don't use it at all. Am I making a mistake by leaving the petcock on "prime".....all the time? After I get the engine running and warm, should I select "on"?
Remember, I have the original carb.....pumper.....so I'd suspect a full choke is mandatory. I hope my woes have not been caused by misinformation. Never thought I'd have to seriously "romp" on that starter lever, Ken, but it seems I do.
I have found that that kick lever needs to be straight up at 12 o'clock when the piston is at TDC to get a good, full stroke....otherwise, it seems to be a wasted kick.....no pop, nada.
Any thoughts?
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Post by solo2racr on Oct 2, 2008 19:51:59 GMT -5
I wouldn't worry about leaving it in PRI position. It is the same as mine (non-vacuum) when it is in the ON pos. The "pumper" only comes into play when you twist the throttle. If your giving the throttle 2 twists and then the enrichment lever is left in the ON pos. I would guess it is flooding out. I don't worry about where the kick lever catches to much. So long as it's above horizontal, I'm good.
If I were in your shoes I would try this. No twist on the throttle, Enrichment lever OFF after the first kick. If it doesn't start after 3-4 kicks, ramp it up a bit and give it one twist and then same as before. If after 3-4 kicks, I would start over after a few minutes wait. I know if I leave my enrichment lever on after the first kick, it WILL flood.
Even after sitting for an hour, mine is 2 kicks to start, no nothing. Just kick.
It's easier to work up to what it wants from not enough gas than flooding it and trying from there. Just a little food for thought.
Remember. No throttle when kicking.
I could probably start mine with my procedure with my hand. That's all the force I use. I'll have to try it just to see if I can.
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Post by soonerfan on Oct 2, 2008 19:59:08 GMT -5
Thanks........I'll give it a go. I never touch the throttle when kicking.......it might be flooding a bit....because I leave that lever all the way down when cold. This could be the culprit. Appreciate the insight.....and thanks.
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Post by wotavidone on Oct 3, 2008 0:37:39 GMT -5
Actually, you are not supposed to be able to flood the bike with the pumper on the carb either.
If the diaphragms are in good nick, so that the carb is working as designed, the accelerator pump does not actually pump fuel, unless you have engine vacuum holding the appropriate diaphragm open.
My technique which I use on both my XT (non-pumper carb) and my SR (pumper carb) works on both.
Cold:
Put "choke" on, more accurately its the enrichment lever as solo says. No throttle. Ease it just over compression, with the decomp lever. Let kick start lever right up again to get a new bite. Give it a good boot.
Was a first kick start on my way to work on the XT this morning. Took choke/enrichment lever off as soon as the idle sped up.
Hot:
No choke, press hot start button if its really warm. No throttle. Ease it just over compression, with the decomp lever. Let kick start lever right up again to get a new bite. Give it a good boot.
I strongly agree with the statement: It's easier to work up to what it wants from not enough gas than flooding it and trying from there.
If you think the engine is flooded:
Hold the decompressor open and give it two or three good kicks. With the valve held open the engine cannot develop vacuum to suck in anything through the carb, but the excess fuel/air mix in the cylinder is cleared out. Every once in a while, if you leave the ignition on, this technique results in the excess fuel being ignited in the exhaust system. It would have to be the loudest bang I've heard since an old bloke demonstrated his old English service issue Webley pistol one day.
Mick
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Post by solo2racr on Oct 3, 2008 1:41:14 GMT -5
Actually, you are not supposed to be able to flood the bike with the pumper on the carb either. Mick Good call. I'm not that familiar with the stock carb. I just went from what Paul was saying (or was told). I know I have seen some carbs (in general) that will pump regardless. Now that you mention it, it makes sense. I can picture a stock carb with a diaphragm on the right side towards the front of the carb. I guess that would be the one you are referring to. |
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Post by davedunsboro on Oct 3, 2008 7:09:47 GMT -5
Quite an interesting thread really ! I'm with the Miker method , roll the chosen SR out of the shed,flick it to prime,set the compression up(I must be a real poof as I use both the window & decomp lever)give it a good boot in the guts with the choke on .Usually get a b-bang & the second kick gives life ,let it tick over till I've got my helmet on & its choke off & back to normal on the tap & up the street ! My 4 SRs perform exactly the same even if they haven't been fired up for a while(except one of them kicks my butt back if I dare use the hot start).I very rarely use the hot start on any of them anyway & I always use good footwear(workboots).These bikes aren't everyones cup of tea & not everyone learns the knack(there was a guy on the forum a couple of weeks ago that sold his back to the original owner for this reason !) I think the better you can visualise whats happening down in the engine the better you understand whats going on when you give it a kick & some guys will never get it ! But thats OK & thats why they make so many different types of bikes! I've got mates who couldn't build or repair a bike for peanuts , but they can mono in every gear down the street ,brilliant hand/foot/eye coordination(& they can't for that matter get any of my SRs going) .It's all good ,cheers Dave.
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Post by soonerfan on Oct 3, 2008 7:47:50 GMT -5
Dave uses the prescribed method from the owner's manual. When K&N adjusted my carb after the bike rebuild, they determined that I didn't have the proper decompression cable nor the little bracket that attaches it to the head. Hmmm. I found the bracket, and ordered a new cable and will install after arrival. But the fact remains, that the bike WILL start without Dave's procedure....albeit probably much more difficult. My guess is that the Factory designed it to be there for a reason.....ya think?
My friend that helped me with this rebuild claims I didn't need to use the decomp lever......maybe not, but I'm going to go by the book when I receive it. Charlie never uses it on his XT's.....maybe it is his brute weight on the kicker...he's only about 315 lbs.
Until then, I'll just have to experiment. Believe me, I will win this battle......I NEVER give up.
Thanks to all for their kind advice!
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Post by solo2racr on Oct 3, 2008 10:41:26 GMT -5
Probably the difference between the Miker/Dave method is the carb (stock VS 38VM). Either way, sounds like the results are the same. Mine will hit a few times on the first kick but not keep it. 2nd kick is nada and the 3rd is when she lights for good. Like Dave said, that's when I get my gear on while she warms up.
BTW......I don't run a De-Comp cable either. I just snick it into gear and roll it back against the comp stroke.
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Post by soonerfan on Oct 3, 2008 11:22:06 GMT -5
Quick question: Does anyone know what size the bolt is that fastens the decomp cable bracket to the head? I'm sure I can find one at the hardware store.....OEM to order are 2.10 each!
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Post by solo2racr on Oct 3, 2008 11:34:06 GMT -5
Mines held down by the bolt that's already there. The one in front of the adjustment cover that holds the rocker cover in place.
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Post by soonerfan on Oct 3, 2008 11:40:24 GMT -5
I know! Mine is missing. I'm asking so I can stop at the store and pick one up, in lieu of riding the bike over there and experimenting in the parking lot.
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Post by solo2racr on Oct 3, 2008 13:06:38 GMT -5
LOL...Sorry. Brain Fart  It's 6x1 but I'm unsure about the length. Probably about 20mm Long. |
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Post by soonerfan on Oct 3, 2008 16:15:49 GMT -5
Update on starting:
So I go to the garage, sit on the beast, turn on the key. Full choke, indicator in window and kick. Off goes the choke, get indicator in window, and notice the kickstart lever isn't at the very top of the stroke. So I ease it down a bit and release....now catches in 12 o'clock position. Kick it and get a pop. Do this procedure again and it starts!
Leads me to believe that the indicator in the window isn't dead-nuts-on TDC and I have been flooding the carb with all the kicking with the choke on.
Not breaking into the Leinenkuegel six pack yet, but will give it another go with this procedure in 45 minutes.....if the biatch fires, we drink!
If it doesn't, we drink anyways!
Cheers!
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Post by solo2racr on Oct 3, 2008 18:16:48 GMT -5
So if I read that right....3 kicks? Sounds right to me.
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