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Post by pvlietstra on Jul 11, 2008 5:55:49 GMT -5
Has anyone tried out any of the options listed at this site : www.transmic.net/gbindex.htmI will be interested to hear any reports on this, problems encountered, solutions discovered, what works best, what does not work well. Also information on any other DIY ignition sites applicable to the SR500, preferably without a battery.
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Post by chew652 on Jul 11, 2008 8:38:59 GMT -5
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Post by aero on Jul 23, 2008 6:09:25 GMT -5
Here's one I built, hot of the production line. Runs well so far, nice clean advance curve, starts better then the old Yamaha box, but that could just be down to new connectors. The generator that charges the capacitor kicks out less then 20 volts when starting -so dirty connectors will loose a lot of power. The board is potted into the case so its water and vibration proof. The plugs, potting and case make up the majority of the cost. In fact the plugs cost me a fcuking packet as I had to buy a minimum order quantity to get the right ones with the correct locking tags for the SR. Although you can buy just half the plug from these suppliers so I didn't end up with loads of spare female plugs buying them this way. The wire I used is high quality aircraft wire - its the only way I can sus out electrics if all the wire is white.
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Post by davedunsboro on Jul 23, 2008 6:46:35 GMT -5
Looks the goods there Aero ! Well done . Now I hope you can sell a few to make it worth your while!I've got a couple of spares myself(my theory is if you've got a spare they don't break)& by rights they should last for life if you don't do silly things (like ride the bike with no battery or eliminator in place)That alone can take out the CDI,rectfier,flasher&all the lamps too ! Have you done the rectifier equivalent yet as that should be a cinch after this effort ?Cheers Dave.
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lurch
Full Member
Posts: 217
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Post by lurch on Jul 23, 2008 17:26:37 GMT -5
Here's one I built, hot of the production line. Runs well so far, nice clean advance curve, starts better then the old Yamaha box, but that could just be down to new connectors. The generator that charges the capacitor kicks out less then 20 volts when starting -so dirty connectors will loose a lot of power. The board is potted into the case so its water and vibration proof. The plugs, potting and case make up the majority of the cost. In fact the plugs cost me a fcuking packet as I had to buy a minimum order quantity to get the right ones with the correct locking tags for the SR. Although you can buy just half the plug from these suppliers so I didn't end up with loads of spare female plugs buying them this way. The wire I used is high quality aircraft wire - its the only way I can sus out electrics if all the wire is white. So when are you going into production Marcus ? sounds just what I need LURCH
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Post by aero on Jul 24, 2008 2:36:35 GMT -5
I'll have a batch ready soon, I'm waiting on the new circuit board to arrive. The next lot will come in a much smaller box, its tiny in fact, half that of the Yamaha one and smaller then the protype box in the picture. You can have it with or without the mounting bracket so if you are building a special you can tuck the box away. I can also leave the leads long and without the plugs fitted so you can mount the box where you like. I will ID the wires for you I've no plans to make the rectifiers as 1) any manufacturing project takes up an incrediable amount of time. 2) Any regulator/rectifier that is designed for a this type of generator will work on the SR, so there is already a huge choice. 3) Dinning room table looks like something out of a Sci-Fi movie and I have used up all my goodwill tokens from HID already this year. What I may do sometime in the future is identify specific units that are availbe cheaply and show how they can easily be wired to the SR. I used to use Honda CB250 regulators on the GS range of Suzukis which have the same type of generator as the SR, the Honda items are pretty reliable.
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Post by caferacercarl on Aug 6, 2008 4:21:08 GMT -5
U da man!!! keep it up!! email Deus with photo's cheers.Carl.
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Post by StewRoss on Aug 6, 2008 4:34:50 GMT -5
Hmmm, I need one for my new SR salt racer...I was considering using a YZ80 stator I have here and getting a rotor and a suitable CDI unit...for a 4 stroke... Decisions... SR
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Post by aero on Aug 6, 2008 6:25:28 GMT -5
Not sure if that would work.....the trick to the timing is in the two coils. Two strokes only have one. I'm still testing this, there have been some interesting glitches. Luckily its not only my box that does it, the Yamaha one will do the same thing. Not the later box though. Mmm I'll get there but I need to build a test rig, I'm in serious danger of getting a speeding ticket riding round with various incarnations of this strapped to the side of the bike while testing them. I've manged to borrow a Hyperpak from a guy on another forum to compare - has anyone else noticed a 'hump' in the power around 5,000 RPM with a Hyperpak? New super small boxes
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Post by StewRoss on Aug 6, 2008 7:07:08 GMT -5
Hi, By two coils do you mean the ones at the bottom? The YZ80s stator has two...I could take a pic if you like but not tonight... SR
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Post by karamsay on Aug 6, 2008 12:53:32 GMT -5
I'd be game for a SR CDI or two.
Let me know if you are interested in selling one or two when you get the time.
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Post by frankyb on Aug 6, 2008 19:46:14 GMT -5
Hi aero, i use a hyperpak in a dirttrack motor, what do you mean by a hump in the power? It feels like it comes onto the cam at about 4500 with a distinct push, not a big hit. Ihave fitted a 1993 sr ignition [complete] into a tt500 and there is no difference that i can see in performance between the hyperpak box and the 93 model yamaha box. Also fitted a powerdynamo unit to an xt500 race motor, the only difference between a stock ignition and hyperpak is about 2kg, spins the motor up a bit quicker but that is all. Cheers Franky b
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Post by aero on Aug 7, 2008 5:52:21 GMT -5
I'm not surprised to see no difference between the hyperpak and standard on the dyno. There isn't much you can do to alter this system. You can 'clean up' the trigger signal and give it a more definate step up to the trigger voltage and push the timing curve within marginal limits. The pulser coil controls the timing at the end of the day. This is just a passive box that responds to a given signal. More then that you can control the capacitor better to give it a sharper turn on/off which will give a better discharge to the coil. You can match the coil better to the capacitive reactance of the box to give more power transfer (or the box to the coil). My boxes feature a cleaned up signal that is more yes or no rather then almost there, maybe. Also better control of the output capacitor. At low speeds there is less power coming from the mag, the mods I've made give the capacitor fractionally longer to charge and shorter more abrut discharge to give a better spark through out the rev range instead of vastly different timing or more power magiced up from somewhere! Yamaha did the same thing on most of ther later versions of this box on other models. Also my boxes are very small (80x40x20mm) and light (most of the weight is potting compund to protect the circuit board - using a box gives better protection with less compound). It can be supplied with leads at any length (for specials) or completely standard with the correct plugs that lock into the yamaha ones. Also supplied with mounting brackets for standard bikes. They will be ready later toward the end of the year, as I've gone away from standard I want to test these 110% first before selling one. My bike fitted with one and I have given a couple away for independant testing. I'm building a test rig so I can run the magneto from an electric motor, its not practicle to do repeated tests with a running bike. I hope to get a compressor that was run without oil from a guy who works in the shop that sold it, it has a three to one set of pullies and the motor is OK. Using the pullies the other way round I can step up the speed of the motor. With that I can drive a magneto -off bike- and put all the boxes on an 'scope then you'll be able to see the pulse signal, trigger signal after conditioning, capacitor discharge and the level of this. Also the advance compared to rpm. As an aside I'll be able to fully test generators and cdi boxes -running-
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Post by frankyb on Aug 7, 2008 20:08:31 GMT -5
I just reread my post from yesterday, and i should have said the only difference between stock ignition and powerdynamo unit is about 2kg. The powerdynamo unit is well made and very compact, bit i dont like the idea of no keyway on the rotor. Maybe it wil;l work fine, i guess only time will tell. Cheers Franky b.
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Post by aero on Aug 8, 2008 3:29:01 GMT -5
The Boyer Bransden electronic ignition for the XS650 is the same in that the rotor is not keyed to the shaft. In tuned engines it is known to slip. My Xs is not tuned, but to avoid any problems I pinned the rotor to the shaft to remove one possible piont of slip also I used belleville washers to apply a load to the the shaft. The theory is as it heats up the locking force on the nuts is retained by the washers so preventing any slip. A belleville washer would work your set up, if it just has a central nut securing the rotor to the shaft. www.bellevillesprings.com/
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