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Post by solo2racr on May 14, 2008 10:28:53 GMT -5
Just wondering what everyone uses
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Post by solo2racr on May 14, 2008 17:09:18 GMT -5
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Post by wotavidone on May 14, 2008 17:55:44 GMT -5
My two bobs' worth.
I use the grade recommended in my owners manual or better. I use automotive oil (Valvoline XLD) of the same weight. Particularly the smaller number - I want that oil to flow easily when the engine is cold - that's when they reckon the most where occurs.
I avoid synthetic oil as I've been told by so many people that the old XT and SR clutches can slip when using this oil.
Valvoline XLD is so cheap at the Autopro shop that I can easily afford extra oil changes. When riding around town, commuting 3 miles to work, I stick with the manufacturers recommended change intervals, but if I'm planning on a longish high speed trip somewhere I can afford to put fresh oil in before I go, so the higher load on the engione is being done with fresh oil.
Mick
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Post by chew652 on May 14, 2008 18:14:24 GMT -5
I like to use synthetics made specifically for motorcycles.I like the German Castrol and if I can find Spectro oil thats what I will buy.
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Post by G Man on May 14, 2008 19:03:38 GMT -5
Just a note here. Oil is a hot topic. At the first even remote sign of an oil thread going wrong on this forum, it will get closed. Just sayin' G Man  |
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mikec
Junior Member
Posts: 60
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Post by mikec on May 14, 2008 19:21:05 GMT -5
I use Castrol 4T.
A mechanic mate of mine, who also does a lot of miles on his XJ900, recomended Castrol 4T
and I have always thought that Castrol products were good quality, I have no complaints.
MikeC.
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Post by solo2racr on May 14, 2008 19:43:14 GMT -5
The reason I wanted to start a thread on this is to get members to think about what they are using, be it motorcycle specific oil or something else. Seeing that the SR's we ride are upwards to 30 years old, I can see 2 schools of thought here. 1 being they were designed around oils that were available at the time and who needs this new fancy stuff and the other thought is, because the bike IS old, I need the best oil I can find for it. Obviously, oils designed for motorcycle use are going to be good. They are also expensive. The idea is to explore the possibilities of using an oil designed for other uses that will offer the protection of a modern oil but not cost 3 times more.
Just simply an exchange of info and let each choose what avenue they want to follow. THAT'S the main idea for having message boards like this. NOT to flame each other.
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Post by chew652 on May 14, 2008 20:20:57 GMT -5
Just a note here. Oil is a hot topic. At the first even remote sign of an oil thread going wrong on this forum, it will get closed. Just sayin' G Man G Man you must have been over at miata.net forum. There are some strong opinions about oil!! This one seems pretty benign so far. Cool link solo. |
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Post by G Man on May 14, 2008 20:55:26 GMT -5
The reason I wanted to start a thread on this is to get members to think about what they are using, be it motorcycle specific oil or something else. Seeing that the SR's we ride are upwards to 30 years old, I can see 2 schools of thought here. 1 being they were designed around oils that were available at the time and who needs this new fancy stuff and the other thought is, because the bike IS old, I need the best oil I can find for it. Obviously, oils designed for motorcycle use are going to be good. They are also expensive. The idea is to explore the possibilities of using an oil designed for other uses that will offer the protection of a modern oil but not cost 3 times more. Just simply an exchange of info and let each choose what avenue they want to follow. THAT'S the main idea for having message boards like this. NOT to flame each other. I'm with you 100% and agree entirely with the idea of your thread. This is a fantastic group and the likely hood of a problem is, well, unlikely. It's just one of those topics though that can bring out the worst. I just had to make note in case something got out of, went the, started to... well, you know! G Man |
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pcnsd
Full Member
Posts: 113
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Post by pcnsd on May 14, 2008 21:21:02 GMT -5
Offering my opinion based on passed experience.
Here in the USA the EPA required the near elimination of zinc compounds used in consumer motor oils (Automotive) as EP agents. The fall out of this has been the wholesale destruction of non-roller style camshafts including my old Web 88a that I ran for 25+ years in a TT based dirt-bike. When I called Web cams they asked what type of oil I ran and if I have recently changed the oil. I replied that I had a fresh change of 20/50wt auto oil which I had used for years with out problem (brand not mentioned here). They related the above. 10 minutes of vintage racing on a fresh oil change and my cam and rockers were toast. The performance cam makers recommend only oils for motorcycles or diesel engines which were not included in the consumer oil change.
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Post by solo2racr on May 14, 2008 22:07:02 GMT -5
I'm with you 100% and agree entirely with the idea of your thread. This is a fantastic group and the likely hood of a problem is, well, unlikely. It's just one of those topics though that can bring out the worst. I just had to make note in case something got out of, went the, started to... well, you know! G Man Thanks, I just wanted to clarify the intent of the thread so, hopefully, it wouldn't get out of hand. The performance cam makers recommend only oils for motorcycles or diesel engines which were not included in the consumer oil change. The link I posted above has a list of diesel oils that are fine to use with wet clutches. The diesel oils do not have the friction modifiers that will let a wet clutch slip (except for the very thin viscosities with a EC rating) . They also have more ZDDP (zinc/phosphorous extreme pressure additive) that will add more protection than normal automotive oil (similar to oil designed for bikes) Just food for thought |
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Post by wotavidone on May 14, 2008 22:56:10 GMT -5
Yes, well.
I am of the first school of thought. There was not much "extreme pressure rating" about the old 20w40 multigrades that were available when this bike was new. I shall consider my baby a road going longterm experiment and continue to use the oil I'm using.
After all, if it turns out the oil was not good enough, I'll be the one paying the price.
I have to say I find it hard to consider a 500cc 30hp single a high pressure environment, and whatever the manual recommends is good enough for me.
Mick
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Post by wotavidone on May 14, 2008 23:05:31 GMT -5
Hmmm. Just read the article on oils. Did not really see anything that would convince me to buy $15/Litre thumper oil from the bike shop. But next time I'm buying oil, I might check out the higher grade Valvoline. The stuff that's $5/L instead of the stuff that's $4/L that I'm buying now.
Mick
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Post by colinjay on May 15, 2008 1:07:15 GMT -5
I am of the old school of oil for the SR's (XT/TT also) as well. Being a ball/roller bearing engine designed to run on the old oils of the 70's I can't see much benifit to be gained in running mega-dollar synthetic oils in a stock or slight warm engine used on the street. I believe that most low cost modern engine oils are significantly better than even the high quality oils of the 70's. I use a standard 20-50w (non-friction modified) oil that I buy from the local supermarket (woolies) when it is on special for about $13 for 5 litres.
However, having said this I will qualify it a bit.
Firstly, in my racer that I intend to run on the salt at Lake Gairdiner, I am running a Penrite motorcycle oil.
Secondly, while I have been on holidays over the past two weeks I have had the gearbox apart on three old engines (2 x XT's and 1 x SR), all of these engines are showing significant wear (loss of the case hardening) on third gear. Not knowing any history on these engines it is hard to put a cause to the wear, however I would not be suprised if the problem is due to the use of std engine oils that do not have a good enough viscocity/hi-pressure/extreme-pressure rating to protect the gears over the long and hard life that they have endured. I have seen this type of wear in other engines and believe it is common to most unit construction motorcycle engines that run engine oil in the transmission, and is not just isolated to our 500 engines. So it is one more thing to consider when desiding what oil to use.
Also if you are considering hotting up an engine, I would strongly recommend that you have a good look at the the gear cluster, as it can make for an expensive "bang" if the gearbox lets go (been there do that).
CJ
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Post by wotavidone on May 15, 2008 1:26:40 GMT -5
Geez Col - woolies oil? Mate, my mates all reckon I'm as tight as a fish's arse, but even I buy better oil than that  Seriously, I read somewhere that the difference between supermarket oil and Auto shop oil is that the latter is tested, whilst the former has had enough addatives added that it should conform, if it were ever tested, to whatever grade is on the label. Is that what you run on the bike you rode to Tanunda ffor the TT Muster? That ol' girl certainly went OK. Its your daily rider isn't it? If that can take, the oil must be fine. Mick |
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