|
|
Post by joneill4 on Sept 18, 2007 13:10:22 GMT -5
About two weeks ago, I lost all lights. I bought a new battery. It worked for a day or two, then I lost lights again. I can charge my battery overnight on a charger. That gets me to work and about half way home before I lose lights again. On my cheapo multimeter, the only test that I can do properly perform is the stator test. It seems fine. That should only leave the Rectifier/Regulator, right?
|
|
|
|
Post by miker on Sept 18, 2007 17:59:45 GMT -5
You can do another test. Check the voltage at the battery three ways:
1. With the engine off
2. With the engine idling
3. With the engine revved up a bit
1 and 2 should be around 12-13v, 3 should be higher, like a little over 14.
Another way to check this is to see if your headlight dims at idle and brightens when you rev the engine - this shows the increased voltage when you're charging.
miker
|
|
|
|
Post by joneill4 on Sept 19, 2007 10:06:44 GMT -5
The headlight used to brighten when the engine was revved. It no longer brightens. I found a rectifier for a Maxim on Ebay. I hope it is the same.
|
|
|
|
Post by wotavidone on Sept 19, 2007 18:08:20 GMT -5
Should be able to disconnect your battery positive lead, and stick your multimeter in series to measure if there is any actual charging current. Note I did not call it a cheapo multimeter. That's because as far as my wallet goes, there is no other sort to buy!  |
|
|
|
Post by miker on Sept 20, 2007 12:48:50 GMT -5
If you put your meter in series like that, be sure its set for current and on the highest scale - you might burn it out if you had it on, say, the 100ma scale.
miker
|
|
|
|
Post by joneill4 on Sept 20, 2007 12:57:46 GMT -5
Ok, so let's say there is no current. Does that mean it's the stator? I did the resistance test for the stator. That seemed fine. I was able to borrow a very expensive multimeter last night. The rectifier/regulator seemed to fail, but my Haynes manual is kinda vague.
|
|
chief
Junior Member
Posts: 35
|
Post by chief on Sept 21, 2007 11:28:50 GMT -5
Bulbs which continuously burn out may be caused by excessive vibration,loose connections that permit sudden current surges,poor battery connections or a faulty regulator.A dead battery or one that discharges quickly may be caused by a faulty alternator or recifier.Check for loose or corroded terminals. Shorted battery cells or broken terminals will keep battery from charging.Low water levels will decrease a battery's capacity. A battery left uncharged after installation will sulphate, redering it useless. (Clymers manual '77-79)
|
|
|
|
Post by joneill4 on Sept 24, 2007 14:09:29 GMT -5
Ok, I bought a regulator for a Maxim from ebay. It had an extra green wire which I taped off. When measured at the battery, I get 12V when off, 14 volts when idling, and 16 volts at 2000rpm. Am I going to fry something at these voltages? Can I add a resistor somewhere to bring my voltage down? My lights are bright, and for the first time, my blinkers work consistantly.
|
|
|
|
Post by flyereddie on Sept 25, 2007 8:17:27 GMT -5
Hi
16 volts is a little high, the rectifier on the SR is also a regulator that is set for a max voltage of about 15volts, I think the rectifier you got may need that green wire connected to somewhere but dont know where maybe negitave but then again it might blow it. The battrey will take the excess voltage and boil the acid so I wouldnt run it like that for too long , sorry I can not be of more help , did you get any instructions with the new rectifier? what was it off maybe i can search the net for info on it
Mark
|
|
|
|
Post by davedunsboro on Sept 25, 2007 9:58:22 GMT -5
What would be the possibility of the green wire being the lower voltage ? Could be worth a check .(these items are sometimes universal to compensate for other bikes) A test with a multius meteorus could proove it beyond doubt cheers Dave.
|
|
|
|
Post by joneill4 on Sept 25, 2007 10:31:04 GMT -5
Ok, I can see where that would be possible. Can you tell me how to connect my multius meteorus, so as not to see that tell-tale puff of smoke that makes me go back to Ebay?
|
|
|
|
Post by davedunsboro on Sept 26, 2007 4:46:08 GMT -5
Just start it up & test from frame to the green to see what you get (dont connect it till your sure) .If you get 13-15volts off it you could be on the right track cheers Dave.
|
|
|
|
Post by colinjay on Sept 26, 2007 17:46:55 GMT -5
Hi guys'
A quick question about the voltage readings you have mentioned? Did you take the measurements as an open circuit measurement (wire not connected to anything) or as an on-load measurement (wires connected to the battery etc and measureing the voltage at the battery)? My reason for asking is that open circuit voltage will always be higher than the loaded voltage. The best way to test the output voltage of a charging system is across the battery terminals, as this will give you a true onload voltage.
C
|
|
|
|
Post by joneill4 on Sept 27, 2007 9:45:55 GMT -5
Hey Colin, thanks for commenting. I did indeed measure across the battery with everything hooked up and lights on. Am I jeapardizing my stator with the increased voltage or just my bulbs. If its just the bulbs, I think I'll keep it high, because everything is working better than ever.
|
|
|
|
Post by colinjay on Sept 27, 2007 17:45:18 GMT -5
I don't think that the stator would be at to great a risk, however, as mentioned in one of the previous replys 16V may cause problems with the battery, and there will be a high risk of boiling the electrolyte (acid) in it.
A check of the charging current (amps) will give a better idea of if the battery is going to suffer. To do this you need to put an ammeter (multimeter set to the amp scale capable of reading at least 5 amps) in series with the battery supply lead. Note: it is importaint not to have the lights or an other electrical drain on the battery during the check and the battery should be fully charged or close to it. You then slowly increase the rpm up to about 2000 - 3000 rpm and while monitoring the current (amps) drawn by the battery. What you want is a reading of about 1 amp (normally batteries should be charged at 1/10th of ther rated current i.e. a 12A/Hr battery should be charged at 1.2 amps). If the charging current is too high the battery will boil dry. If the current being drawn coresponds to about 1/10th of the battery rating them there should be little to no problems with the slightly higher voltage.
On could also question the absolute accuracy of the meter you are using, I have seen some low cost multimeters that can be anywhere up to 10% inaccurate. Being in the electrical/electronic trades I currently have have 7 different multimeters ranging in cost from a $10 cheapie carried on long trips just to prove if there is any voltage if I have troubles through to a $400 meter used for presice measurement in the workshop.
CJ
|
|
